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Fat City Direct
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 102
votes
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A4-5 X |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Dick Williams & Dave Craft - 1966FA (Direct): John Bragg & John Stannard - 1970 |
| Page Views: | 17,980 total · 87/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Description
This is the best route in the Nears -- it weaves its way up an impossible-looking wave of rock at an accessible grade and on almost entirely natural pro. I believe it is typically done in two or three pitches (there is a bolted belay midcliff, but it makes for a spectacular single pitch -- just use lots of long runners. The Fat City wall is pretty obvious: 'Direct starts below a small roof with a hand crack in it. This area is before you reach the Birdland area.
You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.
Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.
You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.
Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.
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