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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sling Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X
Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Dick Williams & Dave Craft - 1966
FA (Direct): John Bragg & John Stannard - 1970
Page Views: 12,052 total, 84/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

This is the best route in the Nears -- it weaves its way up an impossible-looking wave of rock at an accessible grade and on almost entirely natural pro. I believe it is typically done in two or three pitches, but it makes for a spectacular single pitch -- just use lots of long runners. The Fat City wall is pretty obvious: 'Direct starts below a small roof with a hand crack in it. This area is before you reach the Birdland area.

You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.

Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.

Protection

Standard Rack, lots of long runners.
Yotsuba
 
Yotsuba  
 
This route reminded me of Yellow Wall - so good! I used lots of runners. I didn't find any tick marks at the upper crux for assistance - good to just feel around though :) I found a section after the 1st crux to be the hardest bit.. maybe because it was greasy hot when I tried it? I think PG13 is appropriate - there are opportunities for big falls, but it's never dangerous if protected properly. Apr 17, 2017
The crux on the first pitch is a heart-breaker if you don't find the positive hold, but a well-protected heart-breaker.

If you can climb the first pitch, you can climb the second pitch without it being especially heady. I'm as soft as anyone and found it relatively mellow. No, I wouldn't trust the pins, but it's all jugs when you need them. Oct 18, 2016
An R rating on the second pitch is only deserved because of the age of the two rusty pins. I backed up the first with a small cam. Falling on either pin seems inadvisable. It should also be mentioned that the follower can take big swings on the crux moves of both pitches, though serious injury seems unlikely. Apr 29, 2013
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
This is a really amazing climb. On par with Carbs & Caffeine and Matinee. The 10+ direct is quite difficult but well protected. P2 is R IMHO. The pins are manky, backing them up is not possible, the crux pin is bent (I've never even clipped it) and that crux...while barely earning the grade is tenuous until the finger-jugs are reached, then it's a cruiser. Apr 9, 2012
Chalu Kim
  5.10d PG13
Chalu Kim  
  5.10d PG13
An epic will ensue if you get rope stuck early in the 5.9 crack. After you finish the initial 5.9 section, get your rope away or out of the crack. It will be an epic for the leader, and 2nd, to lead and clean. Oct 3, 2011
paulmadry
  5.10b PG13
paulmadry  
  5.10b PG13
I say the route is not R. There's an 8-foot traverse with good pro (1 pin, unlimited small cams) before you get to the second pin. I onsighted it and thank God for the chalk marks! I would not have believed that those moves were the route without the chalk, it looked much harder than 5.10. But it's not. Stay under the roof, move right until you see the second pin ... then YOU decide what to do. It looks super-intimidating from ground. The good news is that at least half of the overhanging climbing is 5.8 or easier. Sep 12, 2010
Micah M
 
Micah M  
 
The fall from the 2nd crux is pretty clean air, granted lots of it. I think PG-13 is right. One of the fixed nuts is still on the crux, and the crack takes small cams. Amazing route! Apr 19, 2009
I'd definitely go with an "R" on this one. The moves to the (2nd) crux pin are very committing and you're looking at a 20-25' whipper if you screw up. I backed off there after having no problem with the lower crux. Feb 23, 2006