Fat City Direct
Avg: 3.9 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||Dick Williams & Dave Craft - 1966FA (Direct): John Bragg & John Stannard - 1970|
|Page Views:||12,123 total · 84/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
DescriptionThis is the best route in the Nears -- it weaves its way up an impossible-looking wave of rock at an accessible grade and on almost entirely natural pro. I believe it is typically done in two or three pitches, but it makes for a spectacular single pitch -- just use lots of long runners. The Fat City wall is pretty obvious: 'Direct starts below a small roof with a hand crack in it. This area is before you reach the Birdland area.
You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.
Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.