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Fat City Direct
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 90
votes
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Criss T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disney Point T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Saint Louis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A4-5 X |
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Wichita T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Dick Williams & Dave Craft - 1966FA (Direct): John Bragg & John Stannard - 1970 |
| Page Views: | 16,201 total · 87/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This is the best route in the Nears -- it weaves its way up an impossible-looking wave of rock at an accessible grade and on almost entirely natural pro. I believe it is typically done in two or three pitches (there is a bolted belay midcliff, but it makes for a spectacular single pitch -- just use lots of long runners. The Fat City wall is pretty obvious: 'Direct starts below a small roof with a hand crack in it. This area is before you reach the Birdland area.
You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.
Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.
You get a good rest before the crux, then you must perform a difficult move up to an undercling, pull right of this, and then up to a cramped stance. The crux is pulling out of this small roof/corner and is very well-protected. Good rests follow. Later on, head right and tackle the incredibly exposed, wild, second crux (protected by a 25-year-old fixed pin). There are a couple tricks to make these moves easier -- such as climbing very low and not clipping the pin until you have the jug just next to it. It's only 5.9+ or easy 5.10, but it gets the heart going. After that, you're in Fat City.
Descent: walk back to the road, climber's right.
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