Elevation: 353 ft
GPS: 43.041, -74.857 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,875 total · 450/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Little Falls is a collection of small crags near the town of Little Falls, NY. While this is certainly no destination area, it is a good choice for climbers in Western and Central New York who want to climb outside but can't make the drive to the Gunks or Adirondacks. The various areas contain a mix of climbing types, with a mix of toprope, trad, sport, and bouldering.

Moss Island
Situated in the middle of the Mohawk River, Moss Island is far and away the most popular of the Little Falls crags. The island's main feature is a reasonably long 30-40' high cliff on the southern edge of the island along the river. Most of the routes here are best suited for toproping, though a few can be led with natural gear. Several opportunities for bouldering exist on the northern side of the island as well.

The Dihedrals
Located on the northern banks of the Mohawk River, downstream from Moss Island. Access here is questionable, as you must cross the railroad tracks to reach the crags. Though many of the routes here can be toproped, many take good protection and are best experienced on the lead.

Getting There

The town of Little Falls appears on most maps. It is just off the NY State Thruway about 20 miles east of Utica. To get there, take the NY State Thruway to exit 29A (RTE-169) towards Little Falls/Dolgeville. Follow Route 169 for about a mile until you reach the large bridge spanning the river, then follow the directions to each specific crag.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 33
Jeff Loves Eileen
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 18
Tumbleweed
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Climbski
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
The Thinker
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Devil Won't Care
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Sno-White
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Beer Crack
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Curbar Edge
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Twin Cracks
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Baseball
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Face off in Albania
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
The Dreamer
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Fred P. Jones
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Devil's Corner
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Spiderman
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jeff Loves Eileen Moss Island
 33
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Tumbleweed Moss Island
 18
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Climbski Moss Island
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
The Thinker Moss Island
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Devil Won't Care Dihedrals
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sno-White Moss Island
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Beer Crack Moss Island
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Curbar Edge Moss Island
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Twin Cracks Dihedrals
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Baseball Moss Island
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b TR
Face off in Albania Dihedrals
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Dreamer Moss Island
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Fred P. Jones Moss Island
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Devil's Corner Dihedrals
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Spiderman Moss Island
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
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