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Areas in Adirondacks

* Adirondack Ice & Mixed 78 / 1 / 22 / 0 / 228 / 0 / 63 / 0 / 251
A: Lake Champlain Region 93 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 115
B: Chapel Pond Pass 138 / 19 / 25 / 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 160
C: Keene Region 61 / 4 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 65
D: Wilmington Region 14 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
E: High Peaks Region 95 / 2 / 5 / 24 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 15 / 122
F: Lake George Region 77 / 52 / 10 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 134
G: Indian Lake Region 303 / 31 / 63 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 355
H: Southern Mountains 79 / 24 / 6 / 118 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 221
I: Old Forge Region 33 / 14 / 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
J: Cranberry Lake 5 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
K: Northern Region 56 / 18 / 18 / 70 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 145
Access Issue: Be aware of peregrine closures Details

Description

The Dacks. An untamed tract of public and private land spanning a topography larger than Vermont. The Park is preserved by legislation from 1885 declaring that the lands of the preserve "be forever kept as wild forest lands." That statement by the Forest Preserve was the formal beginning of what has now become a 6,000,000 acre wilderness--the largest state park in the lower 48.

Click here for a Google map showing the park boundary.

Adirondack Park Regions: A: Lake Champlain Region B: Chapel Pond Pass C: Keene Region D: Wilmington Region E: High Peaks Region F: Lake George Region G: Indian Lake Region H: Southern Mountains I: Old Forge Region J: Cranberry Lake Region K: Northern Region The Adirondack park is prized more for the recreational potential it offers than for the economic value of its natural resources. That being said, don't come the Dacks thinking that you are going to be welcomed with large welcome signs, visitor centers every 100 yards, and tourist shops around each bend. On the contrary; the Adirondacks are a quiet swath of rugged terrain that offers a very humbling and traditional approach to rock climbing.

The sheer number of crags and walls within the Parks' boundaries is enough to satisfy someone for a lifetime. There are well over 250 climbing areas in the Adirondacks, all of which deal a very unique experience from the next. Areas such as Keene Valley and the Cascade Lakes Region offer the largest variety of climbing, allowing a climber to sample massive multi-pitch slab adventures and desperate single-pitch test-pieces within minutes of the parking lot. There are also numerous backcountry crags such as Wallface, Gothics, Big Slide, and The Cranberry Lake Region that test climbers fortitude, patience, stamina and route-finding skills. On many of these committing routes, don't expect the climbing to be clean 100% of the time. It is best to carry a brush for cleaning and a healthy understanding of adventure.

Unlike many other climbing areas across this country, there is no epi-center for the climbing here. One could argue that Keene Valley is the central locus for climbing in the Dacks, and this very well may be the case. However, you'd be hard-pressed to find teeming hordes of chalkbags spraying beta from below. Those who have climbed before you have tried to leave very little evidence of their passage, save for a few slings growing from the side of the cliff. You won't find overly-chalked holds, or tick marks marring a route from top to bottom. What you will find in the Adirondacks is adventurous, character-building climbing that carries with it the very essence of traditional rock climbing.

In April of 2008, Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas released the most comprehensive guidebook for Adirondack Park to date (www.adirondackrock.com). Now in its second edition, this labor of love meticulously documents every route, crag, and trail system within the parks vast boundaries, and it invites the reader/climber to become intimately involved with each route thanks to the stories and reflections scattered throughout the guide.

Due to the size of the Adirondack Park, it has been subdivided into regions consistent with the regions used in the local guidebook.

A: Lake Champlain Region
B: Chapel Pond Pass
C: Keene Region
D: Wilmington Region
E: High Peaks Region
F: Lake George Region
G: Indian Lake Region
H: Southern Mountains
I: Old Forge Region
J: Cranberry Lake
K: Northern Region

Getting There

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.

1,649 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Adirondacks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 120
Chouinard's Gully
Ice 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 110
Little Finger
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 194
Regular Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 163
Pete's Farewell
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 107
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
The El
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
The Diagonal
Trad 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
The Sting
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 139
Gamesmanship
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 130
Frosted Mug
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
On The Loose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
Esthesia
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 83
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 92
TR
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 99
The Fastest Gun
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chouinard's Gully Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond
 120
WI3 Ice 2 pitches
Little Finger F: Lake George… > Rogers Rock > Rogers Slide
 110
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Regular Route B: Chapel Pond… > Chapel Pond Slab
 194
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Pete's Farewell C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
 163
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara C: Keene Region > Hurricane Crag
 107
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
The El C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Diagonal E: High Peaks R… > Wallface
 94
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
The Sting A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 86
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gamesmanship A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 139
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Frosted Mug B: Chapel Pond… > Beer Walls > Upper Beer Wall
 130
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
On The Loose B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 82
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Esthesia B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flying & Drinking and Drink… B: Chapel Pond… > Beer Walls > Upper Beer Wall
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
TR B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 92
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
The Fastest Gun A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 99
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Adirondacks »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jim Lawyer    
For new rock climbing routes in Adirondack Park, go here: AdirondackRock.com/newroute… Nov 28, 2008
John L
Fort Collins, CO
John L   Fort Collins, CO
For some extensive coverage of boulder problems in the Adirondacks check out: boulderproblems.com

I met the guy who runs the site, Zac, out at Nine Corners last week. Great guy and the site is pretty spiffy. Sep 23, 2013
odile from quebec
wilmington
odile from quebec   wilmington
Hy...i see a crag the other side of 9n neer ausable river..on the street Green ST a crag

Topo exist? its a private?
thanks! Oct 30, 2013
Jim Lawyer    
odile: This is Haystack, documented in Mellor's 1986 guidebook, page 69. Yup, private land. Oct 31, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
Greetings,
Can anyone direct me to where I could climb in the rain in the dacks? any caves or sheltered bouldering? May 31, 2015
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Hi Eli--

There are several routes at The King Wall, as well as a couple at the Web that stay dry in a light rain. Aside from that, you're hosed. Jun 8, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
For bouldering, check out Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford. Sep 13, 2016

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