Elevation: 2,910 ft
GPS: 43.938, -74.378 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,444,587 total · 14,898/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jan 19, 2007 with improvements by Raoul raoulhervez
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Access Issue: Be aware of peregrine closures Details

Description

The Dacks. An untamed tract of public and private land spanning a topography larger than Vermont. The Park is preserved by legislation from 1885 declaring that the lands of the preserve "be forever kept as wild forest lands." That statement by the Forest Preserve was the formal beginning of what has now become a 6,000,000 acre wilderness--the largest state park in the lower 48.

Click here for a Google map showing the park boundary.

Adirondack Park Regions: A: Lake Champlain Region B: Chapel Pond Pass C: Keene Region D: Wilmington Region E: High Peaks Region F: Lake George Region G: Indian Lake Region H: Southern Mountains I: Old Forge Region J: Cranberry Lake Region K: Northern Region The Adirondack park is prized more for the recreational potential it offers than for the economic value of its natural resources. That being said, don't come the Dacks thinking that you are going to be welcomed with large welcome signs, visitor centers every 100 yards, and tourist shops around each bend. On the contrary; the Adirondacks are a quiet swath of rugged terrain that offers a very humbling and traditional approach to rock climbing.

The sheer number of crags and walls within the Parks' boundaries is enough to satisfy someone for a lifetime. There are well over 250 climbing areas in the Adirondacks, all of which deal a very unique experience from the next. Areas such as Keene Valley and the Cascade Lakes Region offer the largest variety of climbing, allowing a climber to sample massive multi-pitch slab adventures and desperate single-pitch test-pieces within minutes of the parking lot. There are also numerous backcountry crags such as Wallface, Gothics, Big Slide, and The Cranberry Lake Region that test climbers fortitude, patience, stamina and route-finding skills. On many of these committing routes, don't expect the climbing to be clean 100% of the time. It is best to carry a brush for cleaning and a healthy understanding of adventure.

Unlike many other climbing areas across this country, there is no epi-center for the climbing here. One could argue that Keene Valley is the central locus for climbing in the Dacks, and this very well may be the case. However, you'd be hard-pressed to find teeming hordes of chalkbags spraying beta from below. Those who have climbed before you have tried to leave very little evidence of their passage, save for a few slings growing from the side of the cliff. You won't find overly-chalked holds, or tick marks marring a route from top to bottom. What you will find in the Adirondacks is adventurous, character-building climbing that carries with it the very essence of traditional rock climbing.

In April of 2008, Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas released the most comprehensive guidebook for Adirondack Park to date (www.adirondackrock.com). Now in its second edition, this labor of love meticulously documents every route, crag, and trail system within the parks vast boundaries, and it invites the reader/climber to become intimately involved with each route thanks to the stories and reflections scattered throughout the guide.

Due to the size of the Adirondack Park, it has been subdivided into regions consistent with the regions used in the local guidebook.

A: Lake Champlain Region
B: Chapel Pond Pass
C: Keene Region
D: Wilmington Region
E: High Peaks Region
F: Lake George Region
G: Indian Lake Region
H: Southern Mountains
I: Old Forge Region
J: Cranberry Lake
K: Northern Region

Getting There

The Dacks are big, REAL BIG, and can be accessed from various points in New England and from the flatlands below us.

If you are coming from the south, Interstate 87 (The New York Thruway) will deposit you in the Park.

Traveling from the east, there are several ways, all of which offer similar travel time, that get you there. The Charlotte, VT Ferry, The Burlington, VT Ferry, and the Grand Isle, VT Ferry all drop you off along the eastern precipice of the Adirondacks. Once across Lake Champlain, find your way to Route 73, the central corridor through the Park proper.

From the west, travelers can take Route 3, 28, or 8 depending on the destination you wish to visit.

At this point you should refer to the detailed descriptions for each area, as many of the areas are sprinkled along, or right off Route 73, or off Route 9 or 9N located just to the north and east.

Rain Day Options

There are some options available when it rains.

If it's presently dry and the forecast is for light or intermittent rain, check out The Spider's Web, Split Rock Canyon, Chatiemac Cliff, The Crown, and Lost Hunters. There are definitely routes at these locations which will remain dry. If there's an extended downpour, then don't bother.

If there's a heavy rain, your options are more limited:

1,954 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Adirondacks Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Adirondacks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 88
Multiplication Gully
Ice 3 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 85
Trap Dike (summer)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 132
Little Finger
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 127
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
The El
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
The Diagonal
Trad 7 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
The Sting
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 167
Gamesmanship
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 161
Frosted Mug
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 78
Bloody Mary
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
On The Loose
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 114
Esthesia
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 103
Flying & Drinking and Drinking &…
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 114
TR
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 115
The Fastest Gun
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Multiplication Gully Adirondack Ice… > B: Climbs near… > Wilmington Notch - Hi…
 88
WI3+ Ice 3 pitches
Trap Dike (summer) E: High Peaks R… > Mt Colden
 85
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad
Little Finger F: Lake George… > Rogers Rock > Rogers Slide
 132
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara C: Keene Region > Hurricane Crag
 127
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
The El C: Keene Region > Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
 117
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Diagonal E: High Peaks R… > Wallface
 116
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
The Sting A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 106
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gamesmanship A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 167
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Frosted Mug B: Chapel Pond… > Beer Walls > Upper Beer Wall
 161
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bloody Mary A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
On The Loose B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Esthesia B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 114
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Flying & Drinking and Drink… B: Chapel Pond… > Beer Walls > Upper Beer Wall
 103
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
TR B: Chapel Pond… > Spider's Web
 114
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
The Fastest Gun A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
 115
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Adirondacks »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos