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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Adirondack Rock and Ice for route descriptions and look for Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer's new Adirondack Rock Climbing Guidebook due to hit the shelves soon.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
The Sting
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Gamesmanship
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Cirrhosis
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
Phase III
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 64
Bloody Mary
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 24
The Great Dihedral
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 18
Scallion
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
The Fastest Gun
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 4
It Don't Come Easy
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Freedom Flight
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Son of a Mother
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Menace To Sobriety
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Casual Observer
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Earthly Night
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Southern Hospitality p1
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sting
 77
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gamesmanship
 130
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Cirrhosis
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Phase III
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Bloody Mary
 64
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
The Great Dihedral
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Scallion
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
The Fastest Gun
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
It Don't Come Easy
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Freedom Flight
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Son of a Mother
 21
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Menace To Sobriety
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Casual Observer
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Earthly Night
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Southern Hospitality p1
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face »

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Can u still camp @ the DEC campground @ the base? May 22, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Burlap,

See the following two threads with info about camping...

mountainproject.com/v/poke-…
mountainproject.com/v/2011-… May 24, 2011
Thanks for the links greg, very helpful. May 24, 2011
As far as parking goes, I was there this week and found no self-payment box, probably because it's all closed down. People were parked right on the street next to the campground entrance, so I did the same without being ticketed. Jul 13, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
We've been driving right into the old campground and parking anywhere. That way you can park in the shade.

The self-payment box was only relevant when the campground was in operation and climbers were using the facilities (toilet and water). With the campground closed, this is no longer an issue. Jul 14, 2012
Ancient of days June 10th 2016

P4 Belay Station
The 3 pitons that form the rap station cannot be used as a rap station, unless u leave webbing, slings and rings.
So you might want to bring extra sling to rebuild a rap station.

P5 Rap/belay station
There webbing and slings should be replaced, as they are old, dry, crispy and scarry to rap off from. Jun 11, 2016
Hey,

About falcon-related closures... so currently the right-hand side of the cliff is completely closed, but the description also says that once the falcons make their nest, the closures are adapted so as to be more precise/consistant with actual nesting sites.

Any rough idea as to when that transition tends to occur (e.g. do the falcon nest in may or July??)? Do I stand decent chances of finding some of the currently closed routes opened in late May? May 7, 2018

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