Elevation: 1,726 ft
GPS: 44.408, -73.504 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,370 total · 551/month
Shared By: gilp on Sep 9, 2006 with improvements by Mike Dahlquist
Admins: Jim Lawyer
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.

And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Adirondack Rock and Ice for route descriptions and look for Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer's new Adirondack Rock Climbing Guidebook due to hit the shelves soon.

Getting There

Take 87 getting off at the Willsboro exit and head toward the cliff. Look to park at the DEC campground under the cliff. Park here and pay the $1 per climber/hiker fee. Follow the trail that begins off the back of the campground next to the large boulder.

72 Total Climbs

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Location: Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
The Sting
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 154
Gamesmanship
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Cirrhosis
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
Phase III
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 77
Bloody Mary
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 29
The Great Dihedral
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 20
Scallion
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 111
The Fastest Gun
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Freedom Flight
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Son of a Mother
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Menace To Sobriety
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Maestro
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Casual Observer
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Earthly Night
Sport 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Southern Hospitality p1
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sting
 96
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gamesmanship
 154
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Cirrhosis
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Phase III
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Bloody Mary
 77
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
The Great Dihedral
 29
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Scallion
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
The Fastest Gun
 111
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Freedom Flight
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Son of a Mother
 25
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Menace To Sobriety
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Maestro
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Casual Observer
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Earthly Night
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Southern Hospitality p1
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face »

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