Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1--unknown / P2, P3--May, 1976--Geoff Radford, Richard Parker
Page Views: 16,728 total · 112/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Jul 5, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Quadraphenia is a classic route with varied climbing.

1: Climb up a nice crack corner up to a small right facing dihedral to a nice ledge. (5.7+; Natural Anchor)

2: Mantle onto a small ledge with thin (PG/R) pro until you reach the crack, continue up to a large double overhang via crack. (5.6; small, semi-hanging, belay w/natural anchor)

3: Climb past a sick overhang on the right with nice exposure that turns to a really nice corner/dihedral to another sick overhang. (5.7; bolted anchor)

4: Follow broken cracks and face, veering left to the top.

Pitches can be combined in different sequence if desired, but typically people combine pitches 2 and 3.

Descent: It is possible to make two double-rope rappels from the top of the 3rd pitch. If you plan on summiting, walk to the climbers right,then make your way (carefully!!) back down to the bolted anchor atop pitch 3. Best consult the topo.

Some recent route history: There was a pin on pitch two placed as recently as 2008. The pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties. Don Mellor's guide has no mention of the pin and says to climb with little pro to the crack.

For more route history grab a copy of the Adirondack climbing guide "Adirondack Rock"

Location

Route is located on the left side of the crag. It starts 50' left of a prominent left facing corner, and chimney.

Protection

Standard

Photos