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Routes in Hurricane Crag

Afraid of the Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forever Wild T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Generation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Old Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Schizophrenia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spring Equinox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1--unknown / P2, P3--May, 1976--Geoff Radford, Richard Parker
Page Views: 12,940 total, 113/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Jul 5, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Quadraphenia is a classic route with varied climbing.

1: Climb up a nice crack corner up to a small right facing dihedral to a nice ledge. (5.7+; Natural Anchor)

2: Mantle onto a small ledge with thin (PG/R) pro until you reach the crack, continue up to a large double overhang via crack. (5.6; small, semi-hanging, belay w/natural anchor)

3: Climb past a sick overhang on the right with nice exposure that turns to a really nice corner/dihedral to another sick overhang. (5.7; bolted anchor)

4: Follow broken cracks and face, veering left to the top.

Pitches can be combined in different sequence if desired, but typically people combine pitches 2 and 3.

Descent: It is possible to make two double-rope rappels from the top of the 3rd pitch. If you plan on summiting, walk to the climbers right,then make your way (carefully!!) back down to the bolted anchor atop pitch 3. Best consult the topo.

Some recent route history: There was a pin on pitch two placed as recently as 2008. The pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties. Don Mellor's guide has no mention of the pin and says to climb with little pro to the crack.

For more route history grab a copy of the Adirondack climbing guide "Adirondack Rock"


Location

Route is located on the left side of the crag. It starts 50' left of a prominent left facing corner, and chimney.

Protection

Standard
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.7+ R
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.7+ R
Fun time when the cracks are soaking wet and you have some wet smears coming down on pitch 2 & 3. Great route though, just don't focus all your tricks on those cracks .
Belay on top of pitch 1 is easy to set up using finger sized cams and/or opposed nuts and pinkish tricam.
There's a clean rock flake where probably the pin was fixed. The leader (which knows his placements) couldn't get a loweball to sit and the RP he did manage to place in the remaining crack pop'ed out in my hands with a 45degree outward tug.
If you fell, you would crater your ankles on the belay ledge or get impaled by the crawny birch. Not reassuring when you can't see your next placements which are over a body length away hidden next to a wet streak. May 29, 2017
Benjamin Thompson
Saranac Lake, NY
Benjamin Thompson   Saranac Lake, NY
Awesome climb! Led pitches 1 and 3. The roofs pitch (3) eats cams in the .4 to .75 sizes for lunch. Also pitch 4 is fun, but an adventure in choss management. My partner pulled off a football sized block and I saw a microwave sized one move an unnerving amount under my feet. Be careful! Aug 2, 2016
Rob Burnett
Rahway, New Jersey
Rob Burnett   Rahway, New Jersey
Great route definitely combine pitch 2/3! After you set up the p1 belay there is a green alien that will stop a factor two fall right above the tree on p1 and the climbing is easy keep your cool and find some gear its there!!! Excellent route and no reason for an r rating be carefully and have fun!!! Aug 18, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
I was planning on bolting a via ferrata system up this entire climb and charging summer tourists to take them to the top. Just wanted to check with the local climbing community before doing this. I'll make sure the hardware is the same color as the rock for ethical reasons. Jun 13, 2015
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
Side note: while climbing this back in September I didn't clip a locker back on my harness properly and it flew off while leading the third pitch. I couldn't find it on the ground when we finished but in case anyone finds it DO NOT USE IT. I can't imagine it being safe to use after a fall like that. Nov 12, 2014
jmbx  
I didn't think the belay at top of P2 (i.e. before the roofs) was that bad, there is gear along with the small tree. Some of us like extra gear and belayer feedback for the intimidating roofs. Also, the rope can get constricted in the roof crack of P3, placing gear out the crack can block the rope from getting too far into the constriction. Aug 31, 2014
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
Fantastic climb, especially pitch 3. Pitch 4 is kind of just a means to top out but it's still fun and there's cool quartz bands on the pitch for you rock nerds out there. The rappels are sooo bushy though. Aug 30, 2014
Derek Doucet  
 
Just corresponded with Richard Parker. Here's what he had to say:

"Yes, Bara Bara or Quad…a great route. Hard to remember what gear went where in those days but I can say that we would have placed a pin or two without any qualms if it was required to make a pitch R as opposed to X. Seems like the knife blade rings a bell and your idea makes perfect sense to me, although I simply do not recall…we were in that transition from pins to stoppers and hexes. Geoff and I both learned first with pins. Seems like we stopped carrying hammers every time out around 76 or 77, often to make secure the in situ pins and to clean stubborn stoppers…"

Richard also went on to say that any questions best addressed to the first ascentionists should go to Jamie Cunningham and his partner, as they were the first to report an ascent, and Richard only shared details of his and Geoff's ascent with Jim Lawyer for the new Adirondack guidebook as a tribute to Geoff after he passed away.

Regarding his mention of "my idea", I was unclear in my message to him that I was merely sharing the conversation on Mountain Project, and was not in any way advocating for fixed gear. Jul 14, 2014
Matt D
Jay, NY
 
Matt D   Jay, NY
 
Had a great climb on Quad sunday. I’m glad I didn’t read this comment thread beforehand, otherwise I would have been more concerned about P2 than necessary! There’s about 20’ of run out from the belay, but I was able to protect it with a couple RPs and a microcam. I’m 75% sure they would have held a fall, which gave me the head-space I needed to have fun climbing this pitch.

There’s a broad spectrum of opinions about the placing of the fixed pin on P2 and its subsequent removal. As a broad rule, I agree with the ethic that adding bolts and fixed pins to a climb is a bad thing, especially if it alters the aesthetics of the climb. But there are exceptions.

Here’s another view that could be taken:
Quadrophenia was first climbed in 1976 (three years after the Who released the namesake album). I’m guessing that Geoff Radford and Richard Parker (the FAs) carried a hammer and had knife-blades in their arsenal. There are several seams in pitch two that would eat up knife-blades. If they did carry a hammer and pitons, then we could all dig out our old hammers, and climb this pitch ultra-safe (and in the style of the original FAs) by placing and removing a knife-blade on P2. Do we want each ascent party to do that???- NO way!- the pitch would change its nature quickly with all the pin-scars, and on a route this popular it’d be no time before there would be good finger holds there. If the pitch is well protected with a ‘blade, then a reasonable option is for a single fixed knife-blade to be placed permanently on P2. This would be the closest thing to the original character of the climb with minimum scarring of the rock. Perhaps whoever placed the fixed piece there 10 years ago may have been thinking along these lines(?). What was the thought process for the person who removed it?

Has anyone tried to contact the FAs to ask their opinion of a fixed pin on P2? (they must be 70-90 years old now!). Jul 7, 2014
KVRob
 
KVRob  
 
Great route, but all this talk about replacing the pin on P2 is a little overboard. You can get a small piece of gear there, and the climbing, while thin, is not difficult. Plus, it will keep the riff raff off! May 3, 2014
Adding a piton or a bolt on pitch 2 would not make this a real ADIRONDACK climb. I found I could somewhat protect the iffy section with small nuts, as long as I had in mind that falling was not an option :-) Nov 22, 2013
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
The first moves of P2 I protected with a micronut... not R exactly, but you should be solid on 5.6 to be comfortable here. You would be jumping down maybe 5 ft to the ledge if you blow it. Nov 13, 2013
Derek Doucet  
 
The runout is brief. Maybe a body length or two? The "issue" if one could even call it that, is that it's right off the belay, so any fall would have the potential to factor 2 the anchor, which is somewhat finicky to build, by the way.

In reality you're much more likely to simply land on the belay ledge. While still not good at all, this is far better than a full factor 2 on to your anchor.

I guess I'd characterize this section as requiring care and a bit of caution, but certainly not as a reason to stay away. Of course YMMV, especially if 5.7 is near your lead limit. Best not to fall off... Jul 26, 2012
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
So about this runout on p2... how bad is it?

It's 5.6 if I understand correctly, and you're making face moves until you gain a crack? How far are you going before this crack? Is it 5.6 the whole way? Jul 25, 2012
JHaas  
The descent beta, from the top of the cliff, is incorrect. If you top out on Quadraphenia, you only need one 60m rope and you will make three rappels from anchors that are not on the route! see Adirondack Rock for details. Jul 17, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
adirondackrock.com/correcti…

They've at least updated Pitch 2 to PG for the next guide printing. Hopefully the word gets out of this change. Just sucks for all those who have older guides and/or people who have climbed the route before that may not hear of the change. Guess that's part of the activity - holds, bolts, and rap stations aren't permanent. Jul 15, 2012
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
 
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
 
I have found out that this pin was recently placed as recently as four years ago. Apparently the pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties.
The former pin was not placed during the FA. Don Mellor describes the pitch as having little protection (until the crack is reached).

I for one see no reason to alter the route. For that matter this is rock climbing and climbers see things differently. Fixed gear gets on routes sometimes by accident. Hopefully we can minimize our impact to the ADK and preserve our wondrous resource for our children to enjoy. Thanks for the input.
Jul 13, 2012
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
FWIW, I climbed this yesterday and can confirm there is no piton on P2. The moves are definitely R now, as in years past I don't remember feeling it was that scary there! It is possible to climb the face just right of the open book which while also unprotected gains the horizontal ledge above a little more quickly. I found this to be a little more comfortable simply because it wasn't quite as balancy a move (better feet and hands I think). Anyway, a 5.7/5.8 leader might find this very uncomfortable until a piton is replaced. (I agree it should be up to the FAs to decide if a bolt is acceptable) Jul 9, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
What Mike says is not fact, it's an opinion. Hopefully someone puts something there. Jul 4, 2012
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
 
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
 
I would strongly urge that no one attempt to replace the piton. The fixed protection should be replaced in the same manner as was the original. Altering the nature of the pro is altering the climb. Jul 1, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
  • * ISSUE ** -- Until very recently there was a critical piton at the start of pitch 2. This piton protected the first 5.6 moves from the belay. It is no longer there and there's no gear available (which is why there was a piton). Without this piton the beginning of pitch 2 is currently R.

This was reported to me by two close friends who climbed the route sometime mid-June 2012. I don't know if someone can or is planning on bolting or replacing the piton. Climb with caution. Jun 30, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Amazing Climbing! First pitch is a fun warm up for the second pitch which pulls through an awesome roof (crux) then up a corner to a ledge with anchors. I recommend doing the third pitch up to the summit for amazing views on a nice day! Apr 12, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.7+
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.7+
If you decide to climb the 4th pitch(do it, it's fun...) be very careful not to knock loose rock down. This pitch is actually quite fun and protects fairly easily.

Personally, I thought that the standard P3(I linked 2 and 3) was harder than P1. Definitely mentally challenging if you're just breaking into leading 5.7 and 5.8. Luckily, jugs are almost always lurking.

Descend carefully. I was able to make 2 rappels with a small section of exposed ledge traversing in between. I think a 70m is necessary due to the last rappel.

Fantastic climb.
Sep 27, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.7+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.7+
It's possible to make solid gear anchors at P1 and P2, it's just not straight-forward. That said, and as I have comment previously...link P2 and P3, you will be happier. Bring doubles if in doubt.
As well, a flake on the forth pitch finally detached this past winter. Be aware as your work left above the bolted belay that there is some loose debris. Jul 21, 2011
joe schmo  
 
The third pitch is definitely the money pitch. That said, the belay for the P3 can be quite awful. We, possibly mistakenly, set up a hanging belay right before the roof section of the third pitch begins. The tree some people probably use as an anchors would never be something I'd trust my life with. It's simply too scrawny.

I'm definitely not a very big fan of overbolting, but I do have to say a set of fixed achors at the top of P! and P2 would be quite amazing and would easily make this a super classic. Jul 18, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
"Natural belays" = tiny trees. Belay at P1 being the less problematic, and there are places near the dying tree to backup with pro. The second belay is utter shit. Managed a micro stopper and C4 .3 to backup the tiny birch. Under the roof was too wet and awkward to get a good anchor built. Unfortunately doing P2 and 3 together might have resulted in running out of ideal gear and/or draws, but would have skipped the second belay. Protecting the roof sections eats gear for lunch.

I liked P1 and 2 the best because they were what I think of when I set off to climb in the ADKs. P3 reminds me of the Gunks, but after discussion with this page's creator (just happen to climb with him often) he reminded me that to be a true Gunks climb we would have pulled the roofs. lol May 22, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.7+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.7+
Link pitch 2 and 3 together. The belay stance in between is kind of crappy. Apr 21, 2011
Eric Kuenstner
Los Angeles, CA
 
Eric Kuenstner   Los Angeles, CA
 
excellent rock quality and exposure! I don't know about the last pitch though, rapped from the top of the third as it looked chossy and was going to get dark soon. used a lot more TCU's than I expected. Nov 14, 2010
D Goldberg
NH
 
D Goldberg   NH
 
One 60m double-rope rappel will get you from the top of the 3rd pitch to the ground with very little rope to spare. Knot those ends! Nov 14, 2010
Mike Caruso
  5.8-
Mike Caruso  
  5.8-
Great climb. Worth an annual visit. Combines face and crack climbing. Gear - standard rack with cams to a #2 Camalot. Small Loweballs help protect P2 but not a must. Apr 15, 2009