Avg: 3.6 from 156 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||37,775 total · 225/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson|
P1 - 200ft - Follow the crack straight up to a reasonable belay spot in a depression. There are two pitons that can be backed up with gear. The crux of the climb is likely the final 50ft of P1 (5.5-5.6). Great protection.
P2 - 150ft - Continue to follow the crack system straight up. (5.5G) Once again, great protection. This pitch ends below a roof, just to climbers left of the weakness in the roof. Avoid placing gear in the hollow flakes--get higher and there's bomber gear in the roof.
P3 - 180ft - Climb up and right through the weakness in the roof. Perhaps the second crux (5.5-5.6G). Continue to climb up in the crack system that turns more into a dike and belay from a bolted belay station.
DESCENT - Rap 3 times with 2 60M ropes. There are now bolted rappel stations below, but be aware that you're rapping down a bolted sport climb (Little Finger Direct). The first and third rappels are long, the middle rappel is short.