Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 37,775 total · 225/month
Shared By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - 200ft - Follow the crack straight up to a reasonable belay spot in a depression. There are two pitons that can be backed up with gear. The crux of the climb is likely the final 50ft of P1 (5.5-5.6). Great protection.

P2 - 150ft - Continue to follow the crack system straight up. (5.5G) Once again, great protection. This pitch ends below a roof, just to climbers left of the weakness in the roof. Avoid placing gear in the hollow flakes--get higher and there's bomber gear in the roof.

P3 - 180ft - Climb up and right through the weakness in the roof. Perhaps the second crux (5.5-5.6G). Continue to climb up in the crack system that turns more into a dike and belay from a bolted belay station.

DESCENT - Rap 3 times with 2 60M ropes. There are now bolted rappel stations below, but be aware that you're rapping down a bolted sport climb (Little Finger Direct). The first and third rappels are long, the middle rappel is short.

Location

See excellent photo that depicts canoe unloading spot in relation to the start of the climb. There is a large white rope tied to a tree for securing your canoe. The start of the climb is a short 50ft scramble right then up from where the canoe tie-in spot is located. The climb follows the obvious crack system that starts from the lowest portion of the slide.

Protection

Two 60M ropes. One set of nuts, one set of cams 0.2-2. Save a 0.3 (small blue) for the 2nd belay station. A canoe.

Photos