Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33,456 total · 219/month
Shared By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - 200ft - Follow the crack straight up to a reasonable belay spot in a depression. There are two pitons that can be backed up with gear. The crux of the climb is likely the final 50ft of P1 (5.5-5.6). Great protection.

P2 - 150ft - Continue to follow the crack system straight up. (5.5G) Once again, great protection. This pitch ends below a roof, just to climbers left of the weakness in the roof. This is a half-hanging gear anchor involving mostly hollow flakes. Easy gear can be placed using these flakes. Looking just above the flakes, about a foot below the roof, is a bomber 0.3 (small blue) cam placement in solid rock.

P3 - 180ft - Climb up and right through the weakness in the roof. Perhaps the second crux (5.5-5.6G). Continue to climb up in the crack system that turns more into a dike and belay from a bolted belay station.

DESCENT - Rap with 2 60M ropes. Two rap options are 50ft climbers right about 50ft where the edge of the slide meets the trees. Option #1: Easily traverse 50ft right and slightly down to two trees that have obvious rap burns around them. Many people just rap directly from around these trees (unfortunately). I am not sure why these trees do not have a rap station around them instead. Option #2: climb a 4th pitch up and right about 80ft through a wet and mossy slab to a fixed (tat) rap station that can be seem from the top of P3. I believe its easier to pitch this out than traverse right and scramble up unprotected, although the latter is also an option (you'll see why people are just using option #1). Use knots at the end of your ropes for the first rap. Rap a rope-stretcher (from option #2) to a hidden rap station (tat) climbers right of the the rap line in a small right-facing corner that becomes apparent once you're over the bulge and near the end of a 60M rap. Rap from this station to 3rd bolted rap station about 50M down. You may be tempted to try and reach the a ledge below--it's easier, however, to do a third rap all the way down to a lower ramp/trail closer to the water to climbers left. The risk of the rope getting caught is low.

Location

See excellent photo that depicts canoe unloading spot in relation to the start of the climb. There is a large white rope tied to a tree for securing your canoe. The start of the climb is a short 50ft scramble right then up from where the canoe tie-in spot is located. The climb follows the obvious crack system that starts from the lowest portion of the slide.

Protection

Two 60M ropes. One set of nuts, one set of cams 0.2-2. Save a 0.3 (small blue) for the 2nd belay station. A canoe.

Photos