Avg: 3.6 from 135 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||33,456 total · 219/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008 with 4 Suggestions|
P2 - 150ft - Continue to follow the crack system straight up. (5.5G) Once again, great protection. This pitch ends below a roof, just to climbers left of the weakness in the roof. This is a half-hanging gear anchor involving mostly hollow flakes. Easy gear can be placed using these flakes. Looking just above the flakes, about a foot below the roof, is a bomber 0.3 (small blue) cam placement in solid rock.
P3 - 180ft - Climb up and right through the weakness in the roof. Perhaps the second crux (5.5-5.6G). Continue to climb up in the crack system that turns more into a dike and belay from a bolted belay station.
DESCENT - Rap with 2 60M ropes. Two rap options are 50ft climbers right about 50ft where the edge of the slide meets the trees. Option #1: Easily traverse 50ft right and slightly down to two trees that have obvious rap burns around them. Many people just rap directly from around these trees (unfortunately). I am not sure why these trees do not have a rap station around them instead. Option #2: climb a 4th pitch up and right about 80ft through a wet and mossy slab to a fixed (tat) rap station that can be seem from the top of P3. I believe its easier to pitch this out than traverse right and scramble up unprotected, although the latter is also an option (you'll see why people are just using option #1). Use knots at the end of your ropes for the first rap. Rap a rope-stretcher (from option #2) to a hidden rap station (tat) climbers right of the the rap line in a small right-facing corner that becomes apparent once you're over the bulge and near the end of a 60M rap. Rap from this station to 3rd bolted rap station about 50M down. You may be tempted to try and reach the a ledge below--it's easier, however, to do a third rap all the way down to a lower ramp/trail closer to the water to climbers left. The risk of the rope getting caught is low.