Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Chuck Turner and Bill Simes, 1982
Page Views: 14,929 total · 83/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Sep 12, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.

This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.

Location Suggest change

The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended