Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chuck Turner and Bill Simes, 1982
Page Views: 9,517 total · 83/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Sep 12, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

132 Opinions

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Along with Mr. Clean, this is the quintessential Dacks crack-in-corner pitch. Beautiful, steep laybacking and jamming up a finger--> hand crack caps an exciting lower half. Begin just left of Labatt-Ami at a broken inside corner. At 10 feet, protect and traverse beneath a small overlap to gain the arete. 10 more unprotected feet (5.7R) gains a stance beneath the corner. Jam and layback the fantastic crack to an enormous ledge with two bolts.

This is really a must do; it and Slim Pickins represent the best of 5.9 in the Keene Valley area.


The route is near the climber's-right end of the Upper Beer Walls, past the 5.10 Wall. The crack lies inside a small dihedral that in turn is on the enormous right-facing arete left of Labatt-Ami.


Pro to 3", doubles of hand-size recommended
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
according to the new guide book the FA was Chuck Turner and Bill Simes May 1 1982 Oct 13, 2009
Mark Trotta
Latham, NY
Mark Trotta   Latham, NY
There's a small slot at the end of the traverse at the bottom that takes a #6 BD stopper. That will eliminate the "R" in the 5.7R section. Of course this means long slings on both your first two piece of gear, but it's better than risking broken legs. When you reach the comfortable stance at the end of the traverse, peak around the corner before climbing around to it and there's the small slot just above eye level right next to a jug. Feb 19, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
You should be able to sew up the corner without doubles, but if in doubt take them. May 18, 2010
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Such a wonderful line! A tad more sustained than Slim Pickins, though the gear is plentiful and more straight forward if you can stop to place it!! And, the #6 Stopper placement Mark speaks of takes some of the pucker out of the moves into the corner, as it is bomber!! Aug 15, 2010
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
If you use a double rope system on this climb you can go through the 7R section more safely - you can sling the first 2 pieces short and with good rope management above into the business, reduce the chance of ripping pieces should you pump out and fall. Aug 30, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
Simply amazing. It reminded me of Return to Forever in Acadia. Oh, if it was only longer! The stopper placement is obvious and bomber before the move into the corner. Don't be scared off by the R rating, the moves left to get to the base of the corner are not particularly hard, the holds are positive, and there is a nice stance to work from to get the stopper before making the move up onto the ledge. If you're solid at the grade for the upper corner, which is MUCH harder, you'll be fine down low. Sep 20, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
Soooooo good! I don't think the start is really R-rated because you can protect before the traverse, and once you hit the corner, the route is timeless. Don't let the R-rating scare you off this one, it is an easy move(maybe 5.5). May 4, 2011
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
Just fantastic climbing. I found the slot for the #6 stopper but i would hardly call it bomber. At best i would call it mental gear that might slow your descent if you're lucky. The 5.7 r move is more in the 5.5-5.6 realm and once you pass it the climbing is pure deliciouness. Gear doubles in the bd .4-1 range with A gold for the horizopntal at the top and if you want a 4 for the offwidth section mid crack. Don't be scared just do it. bd 4 not necessary. Aug 19, 2011
Don't be discouraged by the "R"... Dec 14, 2011
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
I could physically bend the left anchor bolt upwards with little more than body weight. Tremedendous elvis legs while struggling to verify the quality of my placements. Apr 24, 2012
I think the "5.7 R" mentioned in the Adirondack Rocks guidebook is for traversing under the overhang to reach the arete. Looked to me like the "R" danger was falling before the end of the traverse and then swinging back to the right and smacking into that left-facing wall below.

A different protection problem is in the main upper dihedral corner itself ... If climbed mostly with the obvious layback technique, it tends to be strenuous to place pro, so it's tempting to rush it. Even more strenuous to move the head to a position to visually check if each new placement is good.
Someone told me they watched a leader fall and get seriously hurt when multiple placements in the main dihedral failed. Another very experienced Adirondack climber told me he thought many of the places for gear in the crack were not really secure, so need to look carefully for the best ones -- and that while stemming might not be often useful for upward progress in the dihedral, better look for chances to use it for a stance to place pro. Jul 27, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Whew! Definitely strenuous to verify gear placements on this one. Gave me a nice pump and a wee bit of the good ol' leg shake. The "R" section at the bottom doesn't pose too much of a problem as there are solid feet up into the corner. Nov 1, 2012
Tucker Roderick
Tucker Roderick   Squamish
Great pitch, thought that the "R" section wasn't too bad, especially with the stopper. Stemming is definitely the way to go, I only laybacked 1 or 2 moves. Do it! Jun 20, 2013
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
Yes ken r laybacking and placing gear blind isn't the best way to get bomber gear.. the crack eats gear up and its very easy to stem and place. Oct 31, 2013
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
FYI trying to jam the corner at the offwidth past the horizontal crack (good X4 #.2 and C3 #1) is not a good idea when it's a damp 88ยบ F.
Mr Clean is a LOT easier than this.
The upper corner of frosted mug is very sustained especially if you don't look out for the stemming spots. Jul 1, 2014
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Try the direct 5.10 start. Makes for a more aesthetic line, and is well protected, with really only one hard move. Sep 3, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Amazing pitch, Once you're in the corner it doesn't quit until you exit it. Placing gear while stemming is the way to go, lots of upward movement can made by just stemming also. Only lay backed a few parts. Props to whomever engineered the idea for the #6 placement to kill the R. Pretty ingenious, but I found it to still be slightly mental pro for the easy moves into the corner. Definitely one of my new favorite climbs. Nov 10, 2014