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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Turner and Bill Simes, 5/82
Page Views: 6,757 total, 55/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

What a way to be greeted by this cliff. Mr. Clean is the clean right-facing dihedral that marks the top of the climbers trail to the cliff, and it is a great way to get the day started, finish off the day, or try your hand and placing gear if you are eager to break into the grade.

This route is as obvious as they come--climb the corner through a semi-technical stemming section about midway up the corner. Get a great rest on phenomenally featured rock at about 3/4 of the way, and finish up by climbing the lower-angled hand and finger crack to the chain anchors.

Location

At the height of the climbers trail...you can't miss the corner.

Protection

Doubles are helpful, but not obligatory, from green to blue Camalot.
A "classic" climb ... needs strength and endurance. Nov 16, 2017
I disagree with the gear description: I STRONGLY recommend doubles - at least - in gold and blue Camalots. Jun 28, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
Very fun. I think this is a great climb for someone who is breaking into the grade or is new to crack technique. I mostly jammed, should have done a bit more layback through the crux. Either way, it's pure fun. Jul 4, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Like most crack climbs, the difficulty level depends, among other things, on jamming skills and hand size. This climb is no different. Nov 11, 2011
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
 
If it didn't ease up for the last half, it would be one of the best routes in the Dacks. But I'm partial to splitters :) Jul 10, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.8
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.8
There is a second, albeit seldom traveled (based on evidence) pitch to this route. It's nick-named "The Kodiak Bear", goes at 5.9, and proceeds up and left of the bolted belay into a flaring alcove "chimney" then into an off-width and finishes on a short hand crack. The pitch is 30' long and the gear suggestion in the guidebook is single set of cams to 3" with double 2" and 3" and that will allow you to sew the thing up and still have a decent belay not relying totally on the fixed anchor. In my opinion, the "fixed anchor" mentioned in the book is a somewhat sketchy chockstone in rock of unnerving quality. The chockstone seems to wedge in there well on a straight down or left pull (the angle of pull on a rap generally, but flexes and shifts when pulled down and right). We backed up and bounce tested the chockstone and added new cord to the tat today. If this post is dated be prepared to bring your own cord to back up the tat there. Have fun... May 23, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
I agree with both aforementioned comments regarding the new difficulty rating in the guidebook. Climbing this route either way (jamming it straight in, or laying it back) doesn't seem to change the grade or present itself as more difficult in my opinion. Jul 16, 2009
I found this easier than "Eat Yourself a Pie" which I climbed later in the day. I did the entire climb as a lieback and cruised up it. The crux is a series of 9 moves especially if you can't jam or lieback very well. Jul 12, 2009
In the new ADK guide by Hass this has been bumped up to a 9 (although I consider myself an 8 climber so I think it must be an 8 because I was able to haul myself up. It's a great climb and a lot of fun allowing for practice of stemming or lieback if you're so inclined. Jun 30, 2008