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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Adam Clayman, Jeff Edwards, and Todd McDougall, 6/17/85
Page Views: 2,620 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

I once heard that the route's name is derived from one of the first ascentionists yelping "Yakapodu!!" as they moved deftly through the crux. Whether or not this is truth or fabrication is erroneous...it just adds more lore and an element of question to the first ascent.

This route is tricky, has some pumpy and balancy moves for the grade, and some exquisite positioning on a wide, crack-riddled face. With all of these ducks in a row, it creates a tremendous experience that only the Dacks can offer.

Climb the long, low-angle face with a shallow crack running through it. Step up thoughtfully to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner and put in some pro.

Move up the steep corner with some surprising high-steps, and some "Gotcha!!" hidden hand holds until you can rest on top in some very secure jams. Continue up the featured face, back and forth between some "huggy" cracks, and on to the lower-angled crack climbing above to the nice belay ledge. Build and anchor off a large tree and a Camalot-swallowing crack by the edge of the cliff.

Location

Beyond the low roof to the right of Fun City is an embankment. "Yakapodu" starts about 3/4 of the way up the embankment at the obvious crack in the slab with the trees and shrubs growing out of the top of it.

Protection

A nice variety of gear is always welcomed. Include some doubles on mid-size units (purple to red Camalots), plus a good assortment of smaller pieces.
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Excellent, sustained for the grade. Full rack to 4'' recommended. doubles in the mid sizes would not go unused. Did not see many obvious nut placements. the rap to the climbers right is in good shape. new webbing and 2 rings. Jul 5, 2016
outdooryves  
 
This is a real easy and fun route! The one I personnaly prefered in this big crag. Need to mention how well it is maintain by the local guides ;) Climbup the big obvious crack, then a superb easy move to step on the ledge, just follow the nice featued rock in front of you. I had so much fun using so different type of pros ( small and big nuts, cams of different size from 0.4 camalot to #3 BD and also 1 medium tricam ( I use it very rarely). Note: minimum 60M rope needed... Sep 21, 2015
ben smith  
 
With a 60M rope and its anchor extended to the edge, this is a rope stretcher for top-roping. tie knots in the end of your rope Sep 16, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.6
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.6
Very fun and diverse route. Super well protected, especially once off the lower slab. I used doubles and placed 12 pieces (sewn up). The climbing was fairly sustained and never really got easy. Great route. Also, with 60m rope, anchoring back in the trees is fine. 2 4ft slings and a cordellete with a sliding X got me a straight rope path to my position at the edge of the cliff. I redirected off a partial gear anchor at my feet so I wouldn't have to drag the belay through the dirt. Partial anchor was a clear Alien and a large red BD hex, both were bomber.

There is an old rap anchor climbers right and down (diagonal from the top of the climb), but the walkoff is less than 5 minutes (also climbers right). Jul 8, 2014
This gets my vote for best 5.6 pitch in the ADKs. Aug 7, 2013
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
If you have a #1,2 and 3 camalot you have your gear anchor at the top. I carry two #1s and never had to use my #2 or #3 so it was perfect!

Also, there is a rap tree at the top of this cliff to the climber's right. While the slings may be acceptable, a single rusty 1/4 quick-link is not in my opinion. The walk off is quick and easy so I see no reason to rap on this. Jul 29, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.6
A #4 cam was useful at the short off-width section after the initial slab/water crack. Very cool crux move! Sustained 5.6 climbing for about 40 feet. Large variety of climbing in one pitch, all of it quality. Ranks with NCCC and Bozeman's as one of the best 5.6 climbs I've done in the ADKs.

The anchor situation at the top is getting worse. The small pine/spruce at the left side is going to fall off (pushing on it revealed the root system is 'giving'). The other trees are too small or dead, so you have to head back 25 feet to a smaller birch for a solid anchor. This one looks solid and will likely survive regular climbing/top roping. This anchor puts you out of 60m rope range, so you can't be lowered off and need to belay from the top. Also precludes TR'ing with only a 60m (70m should be fine?). Tie knots in those ends!!

The crack at the top of the route accepts #2 and #1 cams. I only had one of each left on my rack and opted for the tree instead. If I had 3 cams a gear anchor would have worked fine. There's literally no other cam sizes that appear to work. Jul 15, 2013
aghetie
  5.6
aghetie  
  5.6
Great varied climbing, engaging all the way to the top. Aug 1, 2012
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
very nice 5.6 climb. great gear. longish pitch,bring a lot of gear and at least 12 draws or more. nice exposure for 5.6 Jul 9, 2012
Mike McLean
  5.6
Mike McLean  
  5.6
Did this over the weekend and it's a fabulous climb. A bit of everything. You can stitch most of the climb so if you like to do that, bring a lot of draws.

No fixed anchors at the top and I found the tree to be somewhat scrawny. A push on it seemed to indicate that this thing ain't going to hold many more climbers (I've been known to be dramatic in some descriptions)

Don't miss this one. Jun 18, 2012