Avg: 1.6 from 11 votes
Routes in The Barkeater Cliff
|ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||497 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Jul 5, 2011|
DescriptionFrom the ground, the line is unlikely but as you gain progress on the route, it all comes together nicely for an "engaging" line.
Gain the short, shallow, left-facing corner (crux) and follow the corner/crack to its end. Traverse left briefly to a bolt (buttonhead, 5/16"?) and follow features up to gain a chicken head and protection. Trend up and rightish past incuts, hollow flakes (questionable RPs) and a .75ish" slot to a tricky exit move to the slabby ledge and the fixed anchor. Alternatively, exit on to the slabby ledge by heading up and slightly left from the chicken head past hollow flakes.
Radio Flier Variation Start (5.11b PG): Start approximately 5 feet to the left of the left-facing corner and make bouldery moves to gain the finger crack (micro cam, tricky, crucial placement) and make hard moves right to a bolt up to a stance. Crank one more reachy move on fairly good holds (cutting it close to a ground fall, can protect in the Flexi Flier corner with a long sling) to join the original line at the buttonhead bolt
LocationStart (Original): 20-25' climber's right of Mr. Clean at a short, shallow left-facing corner.
Start (Radio Flier Var.): ~5 ft to the left of the standard start.
Descent: Rap from fixed bolted anchor