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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 497 total, 6/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

From the ground, the line is unlikely but as you gain progress on the route, it all comes together nicely for an "engaging" line.

Gain the short, shallow, left-facing corner (crux) and follow the corner/crack to its end. Traverse left briefly to a bolt (buttonhead, 5/16"?) and follow features up to gain a chicken head and protection. Trend up and rightish past incuts, hollow flakes (questionable RPs) and a .75ish" slot to a tricky exit move to the slabby ledge and the fixed anchor. Alternatively, exit on to the slabby ledge by heading up and slightly left from the chicken head past hollow flakes.

Radio Flier Variation Start (5.11b PG): Start approximately 5 feet to the left of the left-facing corner and make bouldery moves to gain the finger crack (micro cam, tricky, crucial placement) and make hard moves right to a bolt up to a stance. Crank one more reachy move on fairly good holds (cutting it close to a ground fall, can protect in the Flexi Flier corner with a long sling) to join the original line at the buttonhead bolt

Location

Start (Original): 20-25' climber's right of Mr. Clean at a short, shallow left-facing corner.
Start (Radio Flier Var.): ~5 ft to the left of the standard start.
Descent: Rap from fixed bolted anchor

Protection

Two protection bolts, light rack including RPs and cams from micro to .75 C4 size, fixed bolt anchor

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10a R
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.10a R
Seriously rethink leading this unless you're a solid 5.10 leader, the bolt is a 20? year old buttonhead and apart for a the left facing corner and a couple horizontals, the rest is using hollow flakes...

on TR, I attempted the wet left facing corner, I ended up going up the face to its left, heading straight up under the two bolts, makes for a sweet 5.10b/c Jun 23, 2014