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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jeff Edwards & Adam Clayman - 1985
Page Views: 750 total, 9/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Technically a variation to its sister climb, Fun City. A nice finger/hand crack leading to a tricky bulging crux and a dirty finish. A popular top-rope via the chains of its sister.

Start as for Fun City but take the right-hand crack to the right of the right-facing corner. Follow the tight hands crack as it narrows down to fingers and then opens back to hands to a stance below the bulging crux. Pull through the bulge and work up and right past a dirty flaring hand crack and the overhanging left-facing corner to dirty slab above. Belay off any one of a number of trees set back from the cliff's edge.

Location

Start: Same as Fun City
Descent: Walk climber's right on the cliff top to either the rappel anchor just climber's right of Good Dough or continue climber's right to the walk off.

Protection

Single rack to 2", 3" piece could be helpful as well as doubles in the C4 .5-.75 range.
Trees above for anchor, feasible to work left to the chains for Fun City to avoid some of the dirtiness of the section not top-roped regularly.

Photos

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Mikey C
Saranac Lake, NY
Mikey C   Saranac Lake, NY
Bit of a flaring section for the crux if you're into that. Awesome fingers otherwise Aug 19, 2017