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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

According to legend, the Iroquois Indians referred to the Algonquins as "adirondacks", or "barkeaters" because they were forced to live off of bark and buds during the long, harsh winters. It was supposed to be a low-blow to the supposed crude, and not-so useful hunting methods of the Algonquins.

The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.

Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.

For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.

Getting There

Just uphill from the town of Keene off route 73 is a road named "Alstead Hill Road". There is an obvious sign right before the turn, so you won't miss it. Take this road past the Barkeater Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center, and continue all the way to the end of the road (the road will turns to a maintained dirt about midway down it). Park at the end of the road in the Rock and River parking lot.

Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks and uphill for about 15 minutes. You will eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Barkeater Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 68
Big Bertha
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
Yakapodu
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 69
Fun City
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Bachelors and Bowery Bums
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
ASPCA
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
Mr. Clean
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Eat Yourself a Pie
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Overdog
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Fun Country
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Lick It Up
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Finger It Out
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Rule of the Bone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Bertha
 68
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Yakapodu
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Fun City
 69
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bachelors and Bowery Bums
 11
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
ASPCA
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Mr. Clean
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eat Yourself a Pie
 47
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Overdog
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fun Country
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lick It Up
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger It Out
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rule of the Bone
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Barkeater Cliff »

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Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
So how long is the approach in total, about 25 minutes? May 23, 2014
Our group went to Barkeater at the end of Aug ... and were surprised to find a Vermont University group with top ropes on all the popular climbs ... we were a little surprised and disappointed. Nov 16, 2017

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