Elevation: 2,076 ft
GPS: 44.257, -73.863 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,570 total · 245/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

According to legend, the Iroquois Indians referred to the Algonquins as "adirondacks", or "barkeaters" because they were forced to live off of bark and buds during the long, harsh winters. It was supposed to be a low-blow to the supposed crude, and not-so useful hunting methods of the Algonquins.

The above description may or may not be true, but it continues to hang around due to how accurately it depicts some of the climbing and many of the approaches in Adirondack park--wild, rudiment, harsh, and long.

Fortunately, The Barkeater Cliff bears only a small resemblance to the above description. Yes, the cliff IS in a remote part of the Adirondacks, but the climbing is very tame, very clean, and ultra manageable. The cliff sits opposite the Sentinel Range, nestled quietly on the backside of Pitchoff Mountain and embodies everything Adirondack climbing is famous for.

For many reasons, this cliff is the perfect place for beginner and moderate climbers; there are plenty of routes in the 5.5 to 5.8 range, the routes are short enough to climb and rappel with one rope, and the gear, for the most part, is impeccable. Classic lines include, Mr. Clean (5.8), Big Bertha (5.6), Fun City (5.7), Yakapodo (5.6+), and Finger It Out (5.10); however, there are plenty of other routes that also deserve to be climbed.

Getting There

Just uphill from the town of Keene off route 73 is a road named "Alstead Hill Road". There is an obvious sign right before the turn, so you won't miss it. Take this road past the Barkeater Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center, and continue all the way to the end of the road. The road eventually turn into a maintained dirt road Just before the Rock and River Outfitters.  They recently paved this part of the road, it used to begin at half way but now its more like 2/3 the way up the road before turning into gravel.  Park at the end of the road in the Rock and River parking lot.

Follow the Jackrabbit Trail off the back of the parking lot for about a mile, until you see a cairn on the left side of the trail right past a wide wooden bridge. Follow this path through the woods, across a couple of babbling brooks until you reach a house shaped bolder. Go right past the boulder and then uphill for about 15 minutes following the faint trail. You'll eventually come to the cliff with the clean, right-facing corner of Mr. Clean in front of you.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Barkeater Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 93
Big Bertha
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 69
Yakapodu
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 91
Fun City
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Bachelors and Bowery Bums
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 13
ASPCA
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
Mr. Clean
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Eat Yourself a Pie
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Overdog
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Fun Country
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Lick It Up
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
Finger It Out
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Rule of the Bone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Bertha
 93
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Yakapodu
 69
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Fun City
 91
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bachelors and Bowery Bums
 15
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
ASPCA
 13
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Mr. Clean
 123
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eat Yourself a Pie
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Overdog
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fun Country
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lick It Up
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger It Out
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Rule of the Bone
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Barkeater Cliff »

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