Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: July 1990, Jeff Edwards, Ryan Van Loon
Page Views: 1,356 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

The ADK Rock guide suggests using the corner, but it's grown in. Maybe in 1990 it was clean. This route is nearly a straight line. I used the wide water crack at the beginning and placed pro in the corner. This may have moderated the route a touch, but the crux is near the end anyway. Follow the crack and then follow the right facing corner. Gain the parallel cracks (crux) that take you to the top with several variations possible. There's a small tree at the top but I found using it as a backup and building an anchor with pro in the crack on the wall opposite it worked best using a nut, tricam, .5 and 1 camelots. There's a rap station 6 feet to the right off route. Would suggest walking off (climber's right) to avoid throwing rope three times to overcome trees and ledges.

Location

Follow trail right along the Celibacy Wall, almost to its end, and along a narrow ledge for 30+ feet. At a right facing corner with a crack 3 feet to the right of it (and tree at its base).

Protection

Variety of cams, #4 nut. This was IMO a very easy lead for the grade and would suggest it to anyone leading up to 5.5/5.6

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.5
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.5
Agreed that this is a good beginner lead. My first after three years off from climbing. Gigantic stances. May 21, 2012
aghetie
  5.5
aghetie  
  5.5
Good climb with good gear. Easy to set up several toprope variations if desired. Aug 1, 2012