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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: July 1990, Jeff Edwards, Ryan Van Loon
Page Views: 1,240 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The ADK Rock guide suggests using the corner, but it's grown in. Maybe in 1990 it was clean. This route is nearly a straight line. I used the wide water crack at the beginning and placed pro in the corner. This may have moderated the route a touch, but the crux is near the end anyway. Follow the crack and then follow the right facing corner. Gain the parallel cracks (crux) that take you to the top with several variations possible. There's a small tree at the top but I found using it as a backup and building an anchor with pro in the crack on the wall opposite it worked best using a nut, tricam, .5 and 1 camelots. There's a rap station 6 feet to the right off route. Would suggest walking off (climber's right) to avoid throwing rope three times to overcome trees and ledges.

Location

Follow trail right along the Celibacy Wall, almost to its end, and along a narrow ledge for 30+ feet. At a right facing corner with a crack 3 feet to the right of it (and tree at its base).

Protection

Variety of cams, #4 nut. This was IMO a very easy lead for the grade and would suggest it to anyone leading up to 5.5/5.6

Photos

aghetie
  5.5
aghetie  
  5.5
Good climb with good gear. Easy to set up several toprope variations if desired. Aug 1, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.5
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.5
Agreed that this is a good beginner lead. My first after three years off from climbing. Gigantic stances. May 21, 2012