Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,024 total, 16/month
Shared By: aghetie on Aug 1, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A more sustained version of its neighbor to the left, both on the slab start and on the steeper section above. Non-obvious crux move.

Location

10 feet up and right from the start of Yakapodu.

Protection

Did not lead the route, but it looked like the crux could only be protected with thin grear below.

Photos

micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Excellent route, felt a bit stiff for 5.7. more like 5.7 ++. Gear beta: there is a bomber larger nut placement right in the middle of the wall about as high as you can reach, about 2-3 feet to the right of the crux corner side pull move at the first roof thing in the big right facing corner. its easy to overlook when focused on the crux to the left. Jul 5, 2016
Aghetie is correct about needing to protect the crux (thin flaring tips crack before the square ceiling) from below. Unless you had small offset cams/nuts nothing will seat in the crack leaving you to commit to a fall if you blow the moves to gain the top of the right facing corner. I convinced myself a #4 BD nut was good enough and wound up taking a 20 footer onto the ledge bruising my calcaneus pretty badly. Definitely going to track down a #3 offset mastercam once I heal up. Having just sent Mr. Clean I was complacent and quickly got my ego checked. Jul 13, 2015