Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98 |
Page Views: | 1,823 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010 |
Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Description
A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
Richmond, VT
"Small TCUs, #2 Camalot critical, double yellow Alien, double green Alien, 1 red Alien, #0 TCU critical. ...There's a good horizontal below the roof. Make the clip, then move right and make a long reach to a bucket right of the bolt, then another really long reach to a good uncut bucket. Move right to a good ledge and a mail-slot (#2 Camalot). Up to a bolt, then move 6' left and up to a thin seam (#0 TCU). Move left to a good flake (green Alien), then up and right onto the face. Thin face and friable flakes lead to a fixed anchor."
Perhaps there's more than one way to get to the flake. Sep 20, 2010
Lyme, NH