Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98|
|Page Views:||2,682 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010|
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).