Rule of the Bone
Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
Routes in The Barkeater Cliff
|ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98|
|Page Views:||1,790 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010|
DescriptionA great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
LocationStart (Original): 30' to the right of Mr. Clean
Start (Direct): 50' to the right of Mr. Clean.
Descent: Rappel off the fixed anchor at the end of the climb.