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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff
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ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Coy Dog T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98 |
| Page Views: | 1,978 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
Richmond, VT
"Small TCUs, #2 Camalot critical, double yellow Alien, double green Alien, 1 red Alien, #0 TCU critical. ...There's a good horizontal below the roof. Make the clip, then move right and make a long reach to a bucket right of the bolt, then another really long reach to a good uncut bucket. Move right to a good ledge and a mail-slot (#2 Camalot). Up to a bolt, then move 6' left and up to a thin seam (#0 TCU). Move left to a good flake (green Alien), then up and right onto the face. Thin face and friable flakes lead to a fixed anchor."
Perhaps there's more than one way to get to the flake. Sep 20, 2010
Orford, NH