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Routes in The Barkeater Cliff

ASPCA T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bachelors and Bowery Bums T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Because Dogs Can (P1) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bertha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eat Yourself a Pie T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger It Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexi Flyer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Dough T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joshua Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lick It Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Dirty T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
On The Leash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overdog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rule of the Bone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yakapodu T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98
Page Views: 1,790 total, 20/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.

Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.

From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).

Location

Start (Original): 30' to the right of Mr. Clean
Start (Direct): 50' to the right of Mr. Clean.
Descent: Rappel off the fixed anchor at the end of the climb.

Protection

Original: Small TCUs, double set of cams to .5" and a 2" cam, 3 bolts
Direct variation: Small cams to finger size and a 2" cam, 6 bolts

Photos

Did this awesome line last week. From what I recall it was a heady sport route with a critical #2 placement. You could maybe get some small gear in here or there but for the most part you've got bolts when you need them. Jul 12, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Did the direct start to this. There were at least 3, maybe 4 cruxes, all of which were challenging, and each was very different. This pitch packs in a variety of different types of climbing, and wanders quite a bit, but pretty much follows bolts the whole way. We went straight up to the roof first, and then figured out that we had to traverse left under the roof, and then up over it, and then traverse back right. Apr 8, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
For what it's worth, here's what I recorded word-for-word immediately after climbing the route. (I use a digital recorder to capture these details at the cliff while it's fresh and all the gear used in the route is in a pile.)

"Small TCUs, #2 Camalot critical, double yellow Alien, double green Alien, 1 red Alien, #0 TCU critical. ...There's a good horizontal below the roof. Make the clip, then move right and make a long reach to a bucket right of the bolt, then another really long reach to a good uncut bucket. Move right to a good ledge and a mail-slot (#2 Camalot). Up to a bolt, then move 6' left and up to a thin seam (#0 TCU). Move left to a good flake (green Alien), then up and right onto the face. Thin face and friable flakes lead to a fixed anchor."

Perhaps there's more than one way to get to the flake. Sep 20, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Perhaps I'm route-finding challenged but I had problems with the Lawyer-Haas description once you move past the 2" slot. The Lawyer-Haas description mentions moving left 6' from the bolt above the slot, but both my partner and I were unable to see how that would go. We did the route by moving straight up from the bolt to a good edge with bad feet and then working left to the stance at the flake. This felt plain hard and was surely harder than the proposed crux of pulling through the roof. I'm surely open to the idea that I simply missed something, but wanted to make note of it in case anyone finds themselves in my position. Sep 19, 2010