Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Ed Palen & Ron Konowitz '94 - (V1) Jeff Edwards '98
Page Views: 2,682 total · 21/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 19, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.

Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.

From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).

Location

Start (Original): 30' to the right of Mr. Clean
Start (Direct): 50' to the right of Mr. Clean.
Descent: Rappel off the fixed anchor at the end of the climb.

Protection

Original: Small TCUs, double set of cams to .5" and a 2" cam, 3 bolts
Direct variation: Small cams to finger size and a 2" cam, 6 bolts

Photos