Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 364 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Sep 29, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Scale the brickwork face aiming for the two horizontal cracks just right of the tiny hemlock. Daintily wiggle 1 (or 3) less-than-bomber small cams into the top crack. Then traverse right and transition onto the arête (crux). Climb the arête and left face to a big ledge with sappy pine tree.

Wiggle behind the pine and ascend the crack and features directly behind its trunk. The tree will spot you as you make some unprotected moves up to a horizontal jug which takes a lovely pink tricam. Easier going and more pro to the top.

Employ your unused rope to build an anchor by slinging the topmost boulder in the pile.

Location

​About 20 ft. right and downhill of the Guinness crack. Start just right of the tiny hemlock growing up on a small ledge and just left of a white birch growing 3 ft. from the wall. Walk off left.

Protection

The pro is not great. Small cams (C3s) for first horizontal. A pink Tricam is very handy for the second face. I placed a couple of other small pieces, none larger than a .75 cam.

Photos

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