Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Simes and Chuck Turner, 4/30/82
Page Views: 6,956 total · 45/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Roof cracks don't get much better than this one!

This was the first line climbed at the Beer Walls, and named after the first ascentionists' fantasy on that warm spring day in '82.

Commence this climb in a blocky right-facing corner that leads to large ledge about 40 feet up. Either belay your second up to the ledge, or continue up the steepening right-facing corner.

Either way, you will eventually come to a large crack under the massive roof that casts an ominous shadow on you. Protect this with a #4 Camalot and move out left and up around the roof on buckets. Fight the sustained crack to the top, plop yourself onto the final belay ledge, and clip the chains.

This is also a great way to introduce yourself to multi-pitch climbing, as the belay ledge is as large as a car and offers several options for belaying your second.

Location

At the far right end of the Upper Beer Walls is the unmistakable right-facing corner capped by one of the largest roofs in the Dacks. This is the line.

Protection

A large rack with several larger pieces, including 1 #4 Camalot and a couple #3s.

Photos