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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Simes and Chuck Turner, 4/30/82
Page Views: 5,649 total, 46/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


97 Opinions

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Description

Roof cracks don't get much better than this one!

This was the first line climbed at the Beer Walls, and named after the first ascentionists' fantasy on that warm spring day in '82.

Commence this climb in a blocky right-facing corner that leads to large ledge about 40 feet up. Either belay your second up to the ledge, or continue up the steepening right-facing corner.

Either way, you will eventually come to a large crack under the massive roof that casts an ominous shadow on you. Protect this with a #4 Camalot and move out left and up around the roof on buckets. Fight the sustained crack to the top, plop yourself onto the final belay ledge, and clip the chains.

This is also a great way to introduce yourself to multi-pitch climbing, as the belay ledge is as large as a car and offers several options for belaying your second.

Location

At the far right end of the Upper Beer Walls is the unmistakable right-facing corner capped by one of the largest roofs in the Dacks. This is the line.

Protection

A large rack with several larger pieces, including 1 #4 Camalot and a couple #3s.
Like many of the climbs on this wall- very polished but fun. This polish has also stiffened the grades on this and several other climbs, especially at the start, where climbers are trying not to deck. Regrading these for the safety of all would be smart. Because of the wear and polish- feels harder at the beginning. It would be nice if the rigid climber ethic of the Daks could allow for some safety considerations. Sep 4, 2017
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
it looks like you could traverse quite a bit lower on some good jugs. Then you would ascend the left facing flaky stuff. Looks like the gear is good. This was a fun climb, but, not for the new 7 leader. With so many ledges, there is a potential for a ledge fall. Jul 3, 2015
adkeditor Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
 
adkeditor Brown   Saranac Lake, NY
 
Do most people climb all the way to the roof crack before traversing? I did the climb on top rope and used the ledge just below the roof for my hands and traversed left. If I were placing protection, I would use the roof crack for camalots, but otherwise I think I'd do it the same way. Just wondering if this is the usual route. Jun 22, 2014
Jane
 
Jane  
 
You can lead it with a 60 meter rope in one pitch and second can climb it belay from the base. Just use long slings to minimize the rope drag at corners. BD#3 is the largest you would ever need. Aug 30, 2013
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
In my couple times leading this route, I think I even used two 4 inch cams, but if I recall correctly, you can just place 3 inch cams deep in the crack so long as you sling them long to avoid what would be heinous rope drag. Jul 3, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Great route, fun traverse to an off-width finish May 15, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7
Great route with a variety of moves. Ledges at bottom are the only drawback, not being as interesting as the final 50 feet. Aug 22, 2011
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
The rap anchors on this route are suspect. Both bolts spin and the one on the left bends when pushed against with body weight. These need to be replaced asap May 31, 2011
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
 
There is no need for a #4 cam on this climb, or for double #3. There are a few smaller placements in the ledge just under the roof crack (tricams ideal; a slot pointing up). Maybe you'd want bigger cams if you climbed the crack itself, with the ledge for feet. Not sure if that is the "actual" line or not.

Save the #2 and #3 for the crack above that though. Aug 2, 2010