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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell, Don Mellor, Bill Dodd - 1985
Page Views: 492 total · 26/month
Shared By: farkas.time on Aug 10, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Intimidatingly vertical, sustained, and pumpy climbing on highly featured rock. This route is by no means pure crack, demanding some finger and hand jams, but also small pinches, side-pulling, and the occasional jugging. Hugely enjoyable from the low crux for the remaining 100 feet.

Climb up moderate terrain to a ledge (tree pictured in Lawyer & Haas 2014 no longer present), traverse right to guano covered alcove, then up and slightly left over bulge (crux) to start gradually easing but still vertical and pumpy climbing (5.8) straight to top. V1 (5.10b) skips traverse (and guano) and climbs up and slightly right to gain easing but vertical climbing.

Location

Start same as Neutron Brew, at left side of two large (15ft tall) pointy block/slabs. Walk off left or rap from Frosted Mug anchor to the right.

Protection

Double cams to 1", singles to 3", and ample small/medium nuts. Gear is abundant but a bit fiddly due to irregular and often flaring rock. Be mindful of rope drag down low due to wandering route over abrasive, bulging rock. No fixed gear en route or anchors. Extend belay off tree 30' from top. Top rope possible with 70m rope and extended anchor.

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