Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 673 total · 24/month
Shared By: Franck Vee on Jun 25, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

Much in the style of Tequila (and probably Neutron). You'll need jams, but also to finess on edges, side pulls, pinches - think trad climbing meets technical face with lots of small-ish holds. The rock doesn't feel that good in terms of quality - very grippy, lots of small feature but also feels kind of like choss that's been well cleaned.

First rise above the blocky start - it's easy but you'll have some height to go to before you can put any real gear in. Might wanna put 2 at the lip before you attempt getting established on the face - it already feels pretty intimidating, after that easy solo up and that humongous headwall stretching 100+ feet up, perfectly flat & vertical (or does it not lean slightly over you?) covering all of your field of view.

Getting established might feel like the hardest part, but it won't let up much. Get ready for a fight. Once you're midway into the thing, take the time to appreciate the vast expense of vertical rock surrounding you. Then look up and realize you've still a long way to go....

Location

I am not 100% positive but seems this is left of Radioactive (and definitely left of Tequila/Neutron Brew). You would see pretty a pretty blocky start section (could probably sling one on the way if you wanted to), lots of big separate blocks until the ledge/lip where the business starts. Look for 2 parallele, straight but discontinuous cracks going up for most of the wall. At the top of the wall to the left, you would see a big flake (~15-20 feet traverse left) where the route end. Possibly 1 or 2 decent options for the traverse at horizontal cracks. It may also be possible to just keep going straight up.

The top might be wet. 

Protection

Gear is decent but not a gimme. Stuff smaller than .75 is the way to go & lots of it, or you might get 3/4 of the way looking like a moron with tons of larger stuff that's got nowhere to go (at least until you commit to the traverse, depending at which height you do traverse). The thing is looooooooooooong. There good gear to be place but also lots of opportunity for shit gear that wouldn't do much but help sooth the nerves....

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