Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving
Avg: 3.7 from 75 votes
Routes in Upper Beer Wall
|3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Don Mellor 1985|
|Page Views:||5,634 total, 61/month|
|Shared By:||E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010|
DescriptionFDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.
From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.
Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.
The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.
There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.