Avg: 3.6 from 112 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Don Mellor 1985|
|Page Views:||7,245 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010|
From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.
Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.
The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.
There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.