Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Don Mellor 1985
Page Views: 6,728 total · 57/month
Shared By: E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.

From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.

Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.

The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.

There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.

Location

The extreme right side of the Upper Beer walls. The face between Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami

Protection

As much small gear as you have. I sunk a set of c3's and two black aliens and it was by no means laced up. Fixed anchors at the top, shared with Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami

Photos