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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Don Mellor 1985
Page Views: 5,634 total, 61/month
Shared By: E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Description

FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.

From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.

Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.

The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.

There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.

Location

The extreme right side of the Upper Beer walls. The face between Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami

Protection

As much small gear as you have. I sunk a set of c3's and two black aliens and it was by no means laced up. Fixed anchors at the top, shared with Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami
aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
Boy I wish that finger crack went for another 20 feet! Fantastic locks! The corner felt a bit off balance, and the gear is small, but there. Jun 11, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
Regarding the direct: At the start of the traverse, go straight up. The crux at the angled ceiling is the protected by nuts in a corner below your feet; the top of this corner seems to be an unstable block. Hence the R rating.

It's a good lead, but best rehearsed on TR. May 31, 2016
Jim Lawyer    
 
I don't believe this is a serious lead (serious to me means R or X), and here's why: Putting aside the runout at the top, you can place bomber gear always with the previous gear at your feet. The runout at the top is at the lesser grade of ~5.7, and although a fall from there would be BIG, it's all air, and the gear that protects this runout can be doubled and tripled up.

You don't get gear above your head for all the hard bits, so from that perspective, it is more engaging than some. Aug 24, 2015
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
Agree that this is a serious lead. There is gear to be had but it is small, hard to place correctly, and at (or below) your feet for some hard moves. A very thoughtful lead and so rewarding if you can keep a cool head. The final runout is a blast! I found a 00 to be a key piece for me. Aug 23, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This is an amazing pitch on really nice rock, but, a bit of a serious lead. There is good gear with clean falls through the harder sections; shouldn't be a problem if you have small gear and are experienced placing it. Also the upper runout, is through easy and juggy terrain, with spaced, but bomber gear. After the lower section this upper part is insignificant. Still, given the necessity of technically well placed small gear, its probably not the best climb for inexperienced trad leaders. May 28, 2015
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
nuts, double set of c3s and single set regular cams up to #2 will sew it up. I'd say PG since the beginning of the traverse out of the corner at the start felt a little hairy and the finishing jug haul did too, but the 5.9 and 5.10 moves you can have a bunch of (small) gear at your face if you want... Sep 29, 2014
Tucker Roderick
Squamish
 
Tucker Roderick   Squamish
 
Great moves on beautiful rock! I found that a single set of C3s was sufficient. Jun 20, 2013
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
lead this yesterday, super safe if you bring doubles in the red and green c3 size and a small set of rp's. May 7, 2012
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
TR'd this yesterday and LOVED it, the delicate climbing wandering all over the face is great, plus, the amazing jug haul at the end. I think im going to plan on leading this one if i can get enough small gear together to make it safe. Sep 19, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10a
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10a
In my opinion, I don't know that I'd call this PG per se. It's one of those G/PG depending on how you feel about these things. It's not G in the sense that you can get gear at any time you want it, but it's not PG in the sense that you're moving more than body lengthish distances above pieces. I think the distance between the pieces at the hardest points is reasonable to be called G. I can understand the opinion of PG though. May 12, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
One of the best .10a pitches in the Chapel Pond area. Oct 1, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
An awesome Picture of Guide Book author Jim Lawyer on this classic route: adirondackrock.com/gallery9…

If you see this, thanks for the beta at the base Jim, you're a walking guidebook + beta machine Jun 4, 2010