Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 100 ft|
|FA:||1988: Patrick Purcell and Don Mellor|
|Page Views:||459 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Jul 22, 2015|
DescriptionOne of the better 5.12 trad routes in the park. It hasn't seen much attention over the years, but has recently been thoroughly scrubbed. The first ascent avoided the initial overhanging wall by climbing a cedar tree, which is now gone. The direct start goes at V4.
In addition to the hard start, the route has several additional cruxes: the endurance face climbing (which is also runout), and the slab at the top.
Boulder up the overhanging wall (~V4) to a ledge. (You may want to stick clip a high piece here to avoid groundfall.) From the ledge, continue up a fingercrack to its top, then traverse left 5' to another short crack. Protect here (bomber #0.4), then punch it up and right to a bolt, then up to a ledge. Negotiate a few puzzling, heartbreaker slab moves, then up horizontals and a right-leaning crack to the top. There's a nice spacious ledge at the top with a large tree for an anchor.