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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: 1988: Patrick Purcell and Don Mellor
Page Views: 459 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jul 22, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

One of the better 5.12 trad routes in the park. It hasn't seen much attention over the years, but has recently been thoroughly scrubbed. The first ascent avoided the initial overhanging wall by climbing a cedar tree, which is now gone. The direct start goes at V4.

In addition to the hard start, the route has several additional cruxes: the endurance face climbing (which is also runout), and the slab at the top.

Boulder up the overhanging wall (~V4) to a ledge. (You may want to stick clip a high piece here to avoid groundfall.) From the ledge, continue up a fingercrack to its top, then traverse left 5' to another short crack. Protect here (bomber #0.4), then punch it up and right to a bolt, then up to a ledge. Negotiate a few puzzling, heartbreaker slab moves, then up horizontals and a right-leaning crack to the top. There's a nice spacious ledge at the top with a large tree for an anchor.

Location

Left side of the 5.10 Wall. Scramble up a left-rising, vegetated ledge to a good belay stance at a cedar tree. Just above is a sloped ledge below an overhanging wall with a crack; shoe up here.

Protection

2 bolts, many small to medium nuts, plus these cams:
2 #.75 Camalots
2 #0.5 Camalots
1 Green Alien
1 #2 Camalot
1 #0.3 Camalot
1 #0.4 Camalot

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