Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: 9-2-1985, David Smart, Dave Georger
Page Views: 185 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Sep 5, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This routes follows a black streak just left of Neutron Brew. An independent, direct -- but unobvious -- line ascending the 5.10 wall.

Start 10' left of the M-shaped blocks on committing moves with tricky-to-find protection and stay in the black streak left of the alcove (a shallow, box-shaped area capped by an overhang) OR start by scrambling up to the far left side of "M" shaped ledge and follow a crack that leads to a stance on the far left side of the alcove. Move up and left to follow a streak of black rock.

Follow the black streak and pull through the 5.10 wall's second-tier roof at a well-defined vertical crack. Climb to a tan-colored horn in the crack. It's possible to climb straight up from here with reasonable protection and a few cruxy moves -- or traverse left on good holds to a vertical crack, go up a few feet, and the move back right to align with the crack below and then continue climbing straight up to the top.

Protection

Single rack to No. 3 Camalot. Offset finger-sized cams helpful.

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