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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: 9-2-1985, David Smart, Dave Georger
Page Views: 162 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Sep 5, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This routes follows a black streak just left of Neutron Brew. An independent, direct -- but unobvious -- line ascending the 5.10 wall.

Start 10' left of the M-shaped blocks on committing moves with tricky-to-find protection and stay in the black streak left of the alcove (a shallow, box-shaped area capped by an overhang) OR start by scrambling up to the far left side of "M" shaped ledge and follow a crack that leads to a stance on the far left side of the alcove. Move up and left to follow a streak of black rock.

Follow the black streak and pull through the 5.10 wall's second-tier roof at a well-defined vertical crack. Climb to a tan-colored horn in the crack. It's possible to climb straight up from here with reasonable protection and a few cruxy moves -- or traverse left on good holds to a vertical crack, go up a few feet, and the move back right to align with the crack below and then continue climbing straight up to the top.

Protection

Single rack to No. 3 Camalot. Offset finger-sized cams helpful.

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