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Routes in Upper Beer Wall

3.2 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bouncer T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Center Stage T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Dark Horse Ail T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fake ID T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frosted Mug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guinness T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Labatt-Ami T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neutron Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Comments from the Peanut Gallery T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radioactive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seven Ounces T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: B. Dodd & T. Bearman 1987
Page Views: 1,410 total, 25/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on May 9, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Excellent climbing on the slightly overhanging 5.10 wall. Several other routes and many variations follow the same terrain, but no worries: all are good, and all are similar in grade!

Start at some mossy ledges and scramble up through some massive juggy boulders. Use the right-hand of two similar cracks splitting the bulge, gaining a stance under an overhang.

Move left under the overhang (or go straight up for Radioactive Direct 10d, substantially harder), and eventually work right again to head straight over the line you began with.

Roaring Twenties 10b takes a similar line, but breaks left on the upper part (and uses the left-hand lower crack).

See Adirondack Rock for a detailed topo.

Location

Left-hand side of the 5.10 wall.

Protection

Standard rack, no big stuff required.

Build a gear anchor at the top, and last man just breaks it down and 4th-classes over the slab to the trail at the top.

Can TR with a 70m; 60m stretches both belayer and climber...

Photos

John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.10b
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.10b
What a great route! Don't miss this one. Aug 25, 2015
Jim Lawyer

  5.10c
Jim Lawyer    
  5.10c
Locating the starts of the routes on the "5.10 Wall" is difficult, as the lower portion of the cliff is intimidating and nondescript.

First identify the "bulging ceiling" that horizontally breaks the cliff 40' up. Next, on the left side of the wall and below this ceiling, locate two steep, parallel cracks in white rock. This route climbs the right-hand of these cracks.

Double ropes (or a single rope with many long runners) help reduce rope drag. May 14, 2013