Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA--Henry Barber and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Page Views: 8,487 total · 61/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

Slim Pickins follows the major right-facing corner on the left side of the cliff, and tests the climber's stemming skills for nearly the entire route.

Start up the ramp and draw yourself into the corner. Stem your way up until you are right below a broken block and ledge--the routes technical crux. Finesse your way through the thin section, over the bulging block using a long reach to a jug, then rest. Finish up the corner that gobbles up gold Camalots, step left and surmount the ledge to the chain anchors and phenomenal view of the High Peaks.

Location

The major right-facing corner on the left end of the cliff.

Protection

A standard rack with doubles on #2 and #3 Camalots. Chain Anchors at the top.

Photos

rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.9+
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.9+
The crux is best protected with a small rp in a slot. As I recall, there's a good cam about two feet below that, but it might be a good idea to use the nut to keep it PG. May 13, 2010
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
A black BD stopper fits like a glove right before the crux, as well. Apr 13, 2011
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
Has a little bit of everything, calf pumping stems, a facey crux and a pleasant handcrack finish. A great compliment to frosted mug if you're into 5.9 corners. This one's a little bit more techy. Apr 20, 2015