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Elevation: 2,802 ft 854 m
GPS: 44.17141, -74.09871
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 405,285 total · 2,004/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

The High Peaks Wilderness is home to the highest mountains in New York State. This pristine wilderness area is comprised of over 300,000 acres. The landscapes of the High Peaks include rocky summits, alpine lakes, meadows, countless streams and some of the densest vegetation you could ever imagine. For these reasons, the High Peaks is the epicenter of outdoor recreation in New York State, with backpacking being the most popular. Other outdoor pursuits include backcountry skiing, ice/rock climbing and trail running.

Climbing in the High Peaks is very diverse and can range from a trailside boulder to an alpine ascent of Gothics 1100ft North Face. The rock type of the area is Anorthosite, which is very much like granite. In stark contrast to the Gunks (NY's most popular climbing area), approaches in the High Peaks are measured in miles rather than minutes and often require nasty bushwhacks. Cell phone coverage is severely limited and emergency personal might take quite some time to reach you if need be. The trails may be crowded on the weekends, but you will most likely be alone during your climb. Some of the routes may have seen only a few ascents, so loose rock and lichen are a possibility. The point of these warnings are not to scare you away, but to make you aware the High Peaks is not your ordinary crag, it is a genuine backcountry area. By having a long approach, incredible views and superb climbing, routes in the High Peaks offer a "complete", almost magical climbing experience. Bring self sufficiency and an adventurous attitude!

Throughout the climbing history of the High Peaks, routes have been vaguely and sparsely documented. Some routes have been described in journals as early as the late 1800s. Don Mellor's modern guide purposely left out many details of backcountry routes to maintain a adventurous and somewhat mysterious atmosphere. This attitude may change with the printing of the new guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas . The possibility of over-crowded climbing in the High Peaks is unlikely though considering the lengthy approaches and other variables. By adding this area to MountainProject, I hope to inspire the weekend warrior to try a climb off the beaten path. Those seeking pure adventure can still study photographs and choose their own adventure.

Getting There Suggest change

The High Peaks are located in Essex County west of Keene Valley. There are five different trailheads for the area, each with their own regulations. They are: The Garden, Upper Works, ADk Loj, Ausable Club and Elk Lake. The most popular trailhead is The Garden off of 73 in Keene Valley, which fills up quickly on summer weekends. A shuttle surface may be available from Marcy Field if this is the case. What trailhead you should park at depends on your objective, get yourself a High Peaks map.


Suggest change
Over the past few years, the High Peaks has seen a significant increase in foot traffic, most notably backpackers. It is very important that climbers follow LNT principals and do everything within our power to limit our environmental impact. The High Peaks area has filled me with the greatest sense of freedom I've ever felt. By following current NYSDEC regulations, we can ensure that future generations will be able to enjoy this freedom in a beautiful backcountry setting. The regulations are more than fair and follow a "no bullshit" attitude.

You can find current regulations here.

Bear canisters are now mandatory if you're staying overnight in the Eastern High Peaks (from Apr 1 - Nov 30). This is the area east of the Northville Lake Placid Trail, and west of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve. Bear Canisters are not required in the Giant Mountain / Dix Mountain Wilderness areas.

137 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at High Peaks Region

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Trap Dike (summer)
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Old Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Stage Show
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Diagonal
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Wicked
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kittens, Rainbows, and Lollipops
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Freudian Slip
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
California Flake
Trad 8 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ragged Kittens (linkup)
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
No Man's a Pilot
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Invasive Species
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
South Face Gothics Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sheer Failure
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Ride
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trap Dike (summer) Mt Colden
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad
The Old Route Rooster Comb Mtn
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Stage Show Pyramid Peak
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
The Diagonal Wallface
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Something Wicked Avalanche Mountain
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Kittens, Rainbows, and Loll… Ragged Mountain
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Freudian Slip Big Slide Mtn.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Cock-a-Doodle-Doo Rooster Comb Mtn
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
California Flake Mt Colden
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Ragged Kittens (linkup) Ragged Mountain
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
No Man's a Pilot Wallface
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Invasive Species Ragged Mountain
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
South Face Gothics Direct Gothics
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Sheer Failure Avalanche Mountain
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
Free Ride Wallface
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in High Peaks Region »

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