Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Grant Calder, John Wald, July 1976
Page Views: 9,174 total · 74/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 31, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A great line up the cliff, using a series of horizontal and vertical cracks. Stonker pro, and wonderful, airy positioning make this route a classic among classics!

P1: 5.2 (This route uses the same first pitch as "Pete's".) 40' (small gear belay)

P2: 5.7 Traverse left across the face using a positive horizontal. At the large right-facing corner, traverse left to the arete, where there is a small overlap. Move around the arete, and continue across the positive horizontal until it ends on a small ledge/Semi-hanging belay below a clean, vertical crack. 70' (gear belay in vertical crack)

P3: Take the plum line up the crack and into the steepening, left-facing corner. Move around the small overhang using the crack, and continue to the top via lower angle slab climbing. 80' (gear belay)

Descent: Climb down (easy 4th class) into the massive chimney, and aim for the far right end of the chimney that has a chain anchor. It is a good idea to belay your leader down to this anchor, as the last few moves to the anchor are exposed. Rappel with one 60m rope.

Location

Same start as for "Pete's Farewell".

Protection

A standard rack with some extra, long runners to lessen rope drag on Pitch 2.

Photos