Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA--Grant Calder, John Wald, and Dave Cilley, 7/28/76 FFA--Todd Eastman and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Page Views: 9,728 total · 72/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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es-th-sia (n)--"The ability or capacity for sensation or feeling; sensitivity."

Rather ironic, considering this route often leaves a climber's forearms numb and devoid of feeling!

Just to the left of Slim Pickins is the exquisite outside corner of Esthesia. Marked by the 5 to 6 inch wide overhanging corner, this line epitomizes all that is essential for classic Dacks climbing: Desperately pumpy, intimidating climbing with almost impeccable gear (read: a slight runout on pumpy terrain.).

Start this line of strength on the ramp-like feature about 10 feet off the ground. Climb through a series of vertical cracks, surmount a small roof and gain a good rest below the crux second roof.

Place a #5 Camalot as high as you can in the wide crack and punch it through the steep, pumpy, AND unnerving layback with smeary feet. Rumor has it that this section can be climbed as an offwidth, but visual documentation is still at large.

Easier climbing above deposits the climber at the shared chain anchors with Slim Pickins atop the nice, spacious belay ledge.


The large outside corner to the left of Slim Pickins.


A loaded rack! Carry stoppers and a small assortment of aliens, plus doubles in everything from a .75 to #3 Camalot, and a #5 for the offwidth.


Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Thanks for the "visual documentation" of the off-width technique required to battle this beast! Jul 29, 2009
Holderness, NH
climberKJ   Holderness, NH
Get in it. It's good. Can get through crux just fine with a #4. Sep 28, 2009
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
For sure it's an OW. I suck at all sorts of cracks and still managed to avoid the layback until the last few feet.

Also, I think the biggest piece we had was a 3.5 May 22, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
Yeah, a # 4 BD is a godsend on this thing--so much fun! Just the first 20 feet or so are a little unnerving until you hit the first jug to get something in. If you get really sketched off the deck, you should be able to fit a red C3 in the finger slot before you hit the first hand rail. but then you are short a hold. Apr 29, 2011
can get by with a #4 C4, but you'll be happier if you have a #5. Jul 23, 2012
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
A #4 protects the crux pretty well but a #5 would really make you feel good! Sep 17, 2012
manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
I used a #5 and jammed the thing, laybacks make me nervous. Great jamming through the finish. Sep 28, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
I did the OW section differently than that guy in the photo (didn't layback, either). Dec 2, 2013
sara pax
western mass/traveling
sara pax   western mass/traveling
If for some reason you arrive at the crux with a #2 c4 as your largest piece, you can place it deep in the crack not quite tipped out. You can then "confidently" jam/offwidth your way to the top disregarding the ever growing runout. Just saying.
(Note: if you "choose" to do this, try not to nudge said #2 with your foot as you shimmy up the crack. You probably won't be able to see it to be sure it isn't fully tipped out at this point) Aug 9, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
Despite previous comments, having a number 5 is very convenient. It protects the crux perfectly. I would strongly recommend bringing one. Jan 9, 2016
Peter J
Ford E-150, wherever
Peter J   Ford E-150, wherever
had nothing bigger than a .75 at the OW section so I placed a tricam really really deep in there and ran it out. felt like a bomber placement and its far enough in there you couldn't kick it out if you tried. you really don't need anything bigger than a .75 on this route!! Jan 23, 2018
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
Wasn't this 5.9 at one time? Jun 5, 2018
Jim Lawyer    
frank -- yeah it was 5.9+ in Mellor's guide. Consensus upgraded it. Same with On The Loose. Jun 23, 2018
I graded it 5.10 on the FA, Don thought it to be 5.9 for the guidebook... Oct 7, 2018