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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Only Entertainment T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Pumpernickel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheelin N' Dealin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA April 7, 1968--Rob Wood, Dave Thomas, Bob Rice FFA June 1976, Grant Calder, Todd Eastman
Page Views: 1,131 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

If only that damn 5.6 offwidth weren't the first pitch, this would be a 4-star route!! I jest, I jest,...or do I?

This route starts roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb the offwidth crack with a chockstone in it at about mid-height to a sloping ledge in a large, right-facing corner. Belay on gear in the corner. 40 feet

Pitch 2: 5.8 Layback and stem your way up the large offwidth crack. Strenuous at first, but it eases up quite a bit until you reach the next ledge at 35 feet. Belay on the ledge with gear (it is possible to combine the 1st and 2nd pitches).

Pitch 3: 5.9 Continue up the corner until you are nearly at the apex of the corner, then make a surprisingly difficult balance move right to the arete. Continue up to the top, and then off to the right to belay at a sizeable tree. 50 feet.

Rappel with two ropes to the ground.

Location

This route starts in a wide, overhanging crack (that is surprisingly only 5.6) roughly where the approach trail from the talus field meets the cliff at the far right end.

Protection

a good selection of gear is needed. Bring a #4 Camalot, and two #3s for peace of mind. Many parties sling the chockstone on the first pitch.

Photos

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Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
  5.9 R
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
  5.9 R
the pro for this climb is very specific, a 5 or 6 bd cam would help you through the first insecure offwith pitch. Also the chock stone in the first OW pitch is moving so be careful. I did the p 1 variation (5.10) and the traverse left on the slab was dangerous and unprotected. Unless you're all about offwith's i wouldn't suggest this route, but hey maby its just not my bag of tea. Apr 9, 2011