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Routes in The Spider's Web

Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Only Entertainment T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Pumpernickel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheelin N' Dealin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Henry Barber, 4/77
Page Views: 9,607 total · 76/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

Though this route is NOT blessed with an inspirational name, it DOES offer some of the finest crack climbing on the cliff: Just don't let the sand run out of your hourglass!

A few things distinguish this route from several other routes of similar grade on the cliff--A series of hard/insecure moves off the deck to gain the rest alcove, a deceivingly pumpy traverse crux, and an endurance crux with solid jams.

The route starts off of a spike of rock that sits in front of a few, large boulders stacked on top of one another. Place two pieces of gear, then boulder up from the spike and into the alcove below the roof. Rest.

Place a Blue Camalot out left, then master the leftward traverse without pumping yourself out too much. Gain a nice rest below the overhanging hand crack. Drop your arms into fifth and fire the enduro crack to the chain anchors.

It is possible to climb directly up to the main handcrack from the ground. This variation adds a few letter grades to difficulty of the route.

Location

In the center of the cliff is a large stack of boulders with a small island of trees behind it. Start the route below the stacked boulders on a spike of rock.

Protection

A nice size rack from the very small up to a #3 Camalot with doubles in the #.75 to #2 size. As always, wires are helpful.
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
there was a fist size bees nest under the last hold before you get into the alcove. dont get stung like i did Aug 4, 2011
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  5.11a
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  5.11a
Really amazing line - had to hang in the final hand jam section since the pump factor kicked in. Will come back to redpoint again soon... May 28, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
So so sick. I found the hardest individual moves closest to the deck, the traverse didn't feel bad.

With a 70m, link the pitches like Barber did on the FA! Or at least belay your second up and give pitch 2 a go...it adds another 30-40 ft of fun climbing at 5.10. In its current state it is rough, rugged and raw with a hard to read crux off the belay, much lichen/moss and just a touch of choss to keep things interesting.

You can rap off the top with a 70 to the ground, probably could lower off with one but I'm not sure. Sep 12, 2014
Jeff Moss
Albany, NY
Jeff Moss   Albany, NY
If you link the two pitches, you can lower off the 2nd pitch bolts with a 70 safely. Oct 12, 2014
City Dweller
New York, NY
  5.11b
City Dweller   New York, NY
  5.11b
Get past the scary start, the pumpy traverse, and into the sweet sweet crack. A little intimidating, but way fun! Oct 9, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
I found the start strenuous but straightforward and the traverse to be tricky but well protected. The rest was pumpy, but very doable. I had to take one hang.

On a side note, how exactly did Henry barber just tie another rope on and keep climbing? Wouldn't the knot get caught on his first piece of pro? Did he pull the whole rope through and then have his partner tie the knot? That part has always confused me. Jul 19, 2016
Jim Lawyer    
 
TommyWiggins: I've asked this exact question to Mellor, Cilley, and Barber.

There appears to be a general lack of remembering. Barber either (a) had a high first piece and reached the belay before the knot reached the first piece, or (b) the second began climbing before he reached the belay. In 2006 Barber told me it was probably a simul-climb situation, but didn't really recall.

Barber also doesn't recall who he did the route with, but suffice to say it was either Dave Cilley or Todd Eastman. I'm not sure why it's credited to him alone. (Perhaps nobody followed, or followed but not cleanly, or nobody remembers.)

In the end, we opted to retell the original story, because it was written down so long ago, and probably more reliable than 30+ year old memories. Jul 19, 2016
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
Thanks for the information, Jim. As Ken Kesey said in Sometimes a Great Notion, "Besides, there are some things that can't be the truth, even if they did happen. " Jul 21, 2016

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