Avg: 3.9 from 89 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Henry Barber, 4/77|
|Page Views:||12,811 total · 77/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Dec 3, 2007|
A few things distinguish this route from several other routes of similar grade on the cliff--A series of hard/insecure moves off the deck to gain the rest alcove, a deceivingly pumpy traverse crux, and an endurance crux with solid jams.
The route starts off of a spike of rock that sits in front of a few, large boulders stacked on top of one another. Place two pieces of gear, then boulder up from the spike and into the alcove below the roof. Rest.
Place a Blue Camalot out left, then master the leftward traverse without pumping yourself out too much. Gain a nice rest below the overhanging hand crack. Drop your arms into fifth and fire the enduro crack to the chain anchors.
It is possible to climb directly up to the main handcrack from the ground. This variation adds a few letter grades to difficulty of the route.