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Routes in The Spider's Web

Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Only Entertainment T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Pumpernickel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheelin N' Dealin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Rich Romano late 70s
Page Views: 3,287 total, 38/month
Shared By: Steve Brady on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

(P1) A full value pitch! A series of burly moves up a steep, stout, finger crack (11c) gains a steep ramp† that leads to a sloping rest ledge (ca. 40’). Continue up the stellar hand crack (10+) to an alcove (ca. 40’). Traverse right across a ledge to the anchor shared by On the Loose/White Knight (60 m single rope rappel). Alternatively, continue up another 40’ of cracks to a bolt anchor. [I have not done this upper pitch/link-up, so any info would be useful.]

†Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).

Location

Right end of the cliff, just left of White Knight.

Protection

Nuts; Double rack of cams to #2 Camalot. More gear if you want to fire the upper pitch as a link-up, which would be sweet. From the common anchor shared by White Knight and On the Loose, you can make a single rope rappel with a 60. The route protects well. The low crux tends to eat up gear to keep you out of ground-fall on tough terrain.

Photos

Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.11c
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.11c
Don't kick out your RPs at the start! I agree that upper section feels like 11a even after resting on the ledge. Sep 26, 2017
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
Led this thing today but it really beat me up pretty bad - probably whipped on it a good six or seven times. The lower section is spicy with thin gear that is kind of hard to place and the upper section is a straight up pump-fest. Also I find the upper section to be 11a in its own right as opposed to 5.10 - felt harder than the upper section of "Drop, Fly or Die"... May 28, 2012
afh
Portland, OR
 
afh   Portland, OR
 
I thought the upper 5.10 crack was similar in style and grade to 'On the Loose'. That is to say: Friggin' sweet. Apr 6, 2011