Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Rich Romano late 70s
Page Views: 4,114 total · 37/month
Shared By: Steve Brady on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

(P1) A full value pitch! A series of burly moves up a steep, stout, finger crack (11c) gains a steep ramp† that leads to a sloping rest ledge (ca. 40’). Continue up the stellar hand crack (10+) to an alcove (ca. 40’). Traverse right across a ledge to the anchor shared by On the Loose/White Knight (60 m single rope rappel). Alternatively, continue up another 40’ of cracks to a bolt anchor. [I have not done this upper pitch/link-up, so any info would be useful.]

†Tip: A directional placed to the right from off the ramp is worthwhile for keeping the rope out of the crack below, which has, on occasion, proven to have an appetite for nylon (ask me how I know!).

Location

Right end of the cliff, just left of White Knight.

Protection

Nuts; Double rack of cams to #2 Camalot. More gear if you want to fire the upper pitch as a link-up, which would be sweet. From the common anchor shared by White Knight and On the Loose, you can make a single rope rappel with a 60. The route protects well. The low crux tends to eat up gear to keep you out of ground-fall on tough terrain.

Photos