Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: William Diemand and Bob Bushart (July 1979, on aid) / Dave Aldous (first "free" ascent)
Page Views: 8,605 total · 65/month
Shared By: Matt McCormick on Sep 14, 2009 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Zabba is one of the premier hard gear routes in the Northeast if not the country. A redpoint ascent of this beautiful line is an accomplishment of mental and physical skill and has probably only been accomplished less than 10 times! The route begins just left of TR and follows the stunning, flared hand and finger crack past a low 5.12 crack section to a face climbing crux above where the crack disappears. There is a old bolt here but most ascents have eschewed clipping it and in the opinion of most it is unnecessary. Instead, place a large bomber nut and fire through the crux to more tricky climbing before the top and the 2 bolt anchor.

I've chosen to give this route a pg-13 gear rating with an onsight attempt in mind. The beginning of the route is difficult to protect and most place their first piece totally blind. The high crux can result in a pretty good whip but is completely safe!

Location

Begin 15 feet left of TR.

Protection

Small to medium cams and a variety of nuts protect the route well. There is a tricky placement off the ground which is placed somewhat blindly. DON'T CLIP THE BOLT!

Photos