Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,582 total · 62/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Hands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.

Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.

Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.


The obvious right-to-left rising crack to the left of Esthesia.


A standard rack with good selection of nuts, and small to mid-size gear.


super classic. super fun. i found that this route breaks up rather nicely-a few tough moves, rest and place gear, repeat. Aug 3, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
This line feels way harder than Romano's and Fear and Loathing. Don't know if i was doing it right or not but I followed it yesterday and it felt super desperate - almost 5.12a (though it was baking in the sun and I suspect that made it harder). My buddy Casey led it after flashing Fear and Loathing and struggled with it having to take twice for some long rests (he had also dispatched of Romano's and White Knight 2nd go fairly easily a couple weeks back). Jun 11, 2012
Jim Lawyer

Jim Lawyer    
There is a reasonable blue TCU (#1) about half way along the traverse. May 14, 2013
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
I'm with you Jim. I always thought it was 11d and I thought that was the accepted grade anyway. Apr 18, 2016
R Dubs
San Diego, CA
R Dubs   San Diego, CA
I'd agree with 11d. Notably harder than Romano's, though Romano's is obviously much more broken up. I'm going to come back from Cali one day for vengeance on this thing :) Dec 18, 2016