Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: 1988, Tim Beaman and Bill Dodd
Page Views: 11,033 total · 56/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


33 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Hands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.

Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.

Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.

Location Suggest change

The obvious right-to-left rising crack to the left of Esthesia.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with good selection of nuts, and small to mid-size gear.

Photos

loading