It's Only Entertainment
Avg: 4 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||7,115 total · 63/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008|
DescriptionHands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.
Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.
Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.