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Routes in The Spider's Web

Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dacker Cracker T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's Only Entertainment T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jelly Arms T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Pumpernickel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheelin N' Dealin T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: June 1987 Patrick Purcell & Don Mellor
Page Views: 787 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 29, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Though the crux is somewhat short, this is certainly no route to be reckoned with, or taken lightly.

Either start in the TR cave (easier), or just to the right at an incipient seam and broken face (harder). Gain the tiny ledge, foot traverse to the right a few feet to a small left-facing corner. Climb this with so-so gear to parallel cracks that aren't as deep as one would hope. Gear throughout this section is present, but doesn't necessarily inspire a ton of confidence. If you want to keep the grade an honest 5.11, don't step left into TR.

Finish on the large traverse ledge, and use the same anchor as TR and Zabba.

Location

about 5 feet to the right of TR

Protection

A standard rack

Photos

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The direct start to this route is listed in the book as .11 but is actually around 5.12c for sure. This start is also pretty tricky to protect and committing not too far off the ground. Jul 5, 2012