Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Chris Gill, 1991|
|Page Views:||1,346 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009|
- *I'm not so sure about this route's gear quality, as I've only worked on it on TR, though I've heard that it can be led relatively safely immediately above the low-placed, Metolius bolt with an offset Alien. Also, the new ADK Guidebook suggests a rating of 12a; however, holds have broken off, and have reportedly made this routes quite a bit harder (I've even heard grumblings that its crux is harder than that of Zabba's.)
Start with a wicked hard series of crimps, foot smears and lock-offs to gain the bottom of the shallow finger crack (crux--HARD!!). Once established in the crack, finding the proper position, and jams is paramount, as it continues to be pumpy all the way to the top.
Personally, I think with more traffic, a bit of cleaning and maybe even a new bolt placed a bit higher, this could become an even more popular line.
(If you've led this, PLEASE chime in with your account of this route.)
Directly below the final vertical finger crack of "It's Only Entertainment". A bolt about 8 feet up in orange rock below a small ceiling marks the beginning of the route.