Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Gill, 1991
Page Views: 1,369 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 22, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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  • *I'm not so sure about this route's gear quality, as I've only worked on it on TR, though I've heard that it can be led relatively safely immediately above the low-placed, Metolius bolt with an offset Alien. Also, the new ADK Guidebook suggests a rating of 12a; however, holds have broken off, and have reportedly made this routes quite a bit harder (I've even heard grumblings that its crux is harder than that of Zabba's.)

Start with a wicked hard series of crimps, foot smears and lock-offs to gain the bottom of the shallow finger crack (crux--HARD!!). Once established in the crack, finding the proper position, and jams is paramount, as it continues to be pumpy all the way to the top.

Personally, I think with more traffic, a bit of cleaning and maybe even a new bolt placed a bit higher, this could become an even more popular line.

(If you've led this, PLEASE chime in with your account of this route.)


Directly below the final vertical finger crack of "It's Only Entertainment". A bolt about 8 feet up in orange rock below a small ceiling marks the beginning of the route.


Again, I haven't led this; however, it looks as though it takes nothing larger than a red Camalot. Small wires, a good assortment of gear in the finger size, and steel nerves (up to the finger crack, at least) would probably be your best bet.


jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
5.12 R
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
5.12 R
In response to Chris's post I have lead this route. If you want to try to onsite this you should read no further. After the bolt which I stick clipped I got a bad small rp something like a #2, i don't remember the exact size. Shortly after that I got a blue green offset alien which for me was critical to get into a more secure section of the finger crack. After that it is mid 5.11 with great gear to the top. Also I think the grade of 12+ is a bit generous, but i am bad at that sort of judgement. It is a great route; and personally I would be sad to see it retro bolted although replacing the existing bolt might be a good idea. Hope this was helpful Sep 11, 2009
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Thanks for the gear description, Jaime. Sep 13, 2009
Matt McCormick
5.12c R
Matt McCormick  
5.12c R
I tried to lead the line this weekend and apparently should go on a diet as I first broke the best foot at the start and then broke one of the key crimps off. Jamie still fired it after and I was able to do it on top-rope. I'm psyched to get back and lead it. I think a grade of 12c would be appropriate and I agree that I would like to see the old bolt replaced but not placed any higher as that would drastically change the character of the route. Sep 14, 2009
Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
Jerome St-Michel   Montreal, QUÉBEC
Add a look at this climb the past week-end. I could not figure any of the moves off the ground. Seriously felt impossible! Maybe some more holds have been broken... May 29, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12d R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12d R
It's certainly possible that more holds have broken since the previous posts in 2009. There is some friable rock in places. However, I found the key holds currently available in the low crux to be solid for the most part. I think provided that the bolt is stick clipped, the climbing is on the lighter side of the R protection rating but still a heads up lead. There is a marginal RP placement about a body length above the bolt which protects 10+ or so moves to the next working stance and available gear. A groundfall is possible if that piece were to fail. Bear in mind that my opinion is based upon having toproped it first.

The boulder problem is really good and the upper crack is both clean and excellent. Jun 18, 2018