Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Martin Berzins
Page Views: 2,552 total · 23/month
Shared By: Matt McCormick on Sep 24, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route is yet another one of Martin Berzins' bold and hard additions to the Daks. Put up in 1991, this route contains some of the raddest and most desperate moves I've experienced on any route and amazingly has remained un-repeated to the best of my knowledge. The proximity to Drop Fly or Die is completely overshadowed by the quality of the climbing.

Climb the start of Drop Fly Or Die and at the first roof continue straight up in a tight hands and ringlocks crack. At the horizontal, move left into Drop Fly for 4'. Reach out, blindly place a wire or micro cam in the seam and then move right on small desperate holds into a crazy boulder sequence with no feet until your established in a finger lock and can place your next piece. Continue up the sustained crack above to the enormous guillotine flake and then right to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start as for Drop Fly or Die.

Protection

Many small cams and nuts plus some .75 camalot size pieces.

Photos

jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
 
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
 
This rig is rad. Great crack climbing mixed with some difficult and elegant face climbing above some scary gear! The black alien skidded a good 1/4" when I whipped on it, any more and it would have blown. Berzins was ahead of his time. This thing needs more traffic! Sep 30, 2009
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12d PG13
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12d PG13
This is a great route with a bizarre and very difficult crux. I found it much harder than any sequence on Zabba. However, Zabba is more sustained and overall harder to put together. It's possible to place gear mid crux, but it is very strenuous to do so. Aug 28, 2017
FA was Todd Eastman and Chris Hyson in 1977, Martin did the FFA. Oct 7, 2018