Type: Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Poisson, 1960s (var.)
Page Views: 34,104 total · 248/month
Shared By: Matthew Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


239 Opinions

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Description

As per "Climbing in the Adirondacks" by Don Mellor

P1: From the base of the major left-facing corner that begins Empress, rises a dike that leads up to a belay on low-angled rock. 5.0 150'

P2: Climb up and slightly right to a ledge at the base of a huge right-facing, arching corner. 5.2 110'

P3: Step out onto the face on the right and head for the low point in the wall above. Step through this dish and belay 30' higher at a fixed angle(1979). This can be backed up with camming devices. 5.3 130'

P4: Head up and left to a left-facing corner. This leads to the twin crack belay at 145'. 5.4

P5: Climb the right-hand crack (5.5) and head to the birch tree belay at the base of the Bob's Knob wall. The direct friction route is about 5.7; its easier off in the bushes to the right.

P6: Climb the black wall (5.5) for 20' to a huge terrace.(It is also possible to skip this by finishing off left on friction.)

P7-8: Walk right around the corner and climb two class 4 pitches to the top.

Variation Cave Finish: 5.6 120'. From the terrace, climb into the black cave and finish via a vertical jam-crack.

Protection

Normal rack. There are no bolts, some fixed gear, and no anchors.

Photos