Avg: 3.4 from 169 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ben Poisson, 1960s (var.)|
|Page Views:||26,148 total · 243/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009|
DescriptionAs per "Climbing in the Adirondacks" by Don Mellor
P1: From the base of the major left-facing corner that begins Empress, rises a dike that leads up to a belay on low-angled rock. 5.0 150'
P2: Climb up and slightly right to a ledge at the base of a huge right-facing, arching corner. 5.2 110'
P3: Step out onto the face on the right and head for the low point in the wall above. Step through this dish and belay 30' higher at a fixed angle(1979). This can be backed up with camming devices. 5.3 130'
P4: Head up and left to a left-facing corner. This leads to the twin crack belay at 145'. 5.4
P5: Climb the right-hand crack (5.5) and head to the birch tree belay at the base of the Bob's Knob wall. The direct friction route is about 5.7; its easier off in the bushes to the right.
P6: Climb the black wall (5.5) for 20' to a huge terrace.(It is also possible to skip this by finishing off left on friction.)
P7-8: Walk right around the corner and climb two class 4 pitches to the top.
Variation Cave Finish: 5.6 120'. From the terrace, climb into the black cave and finish via a vertical jam-crack.