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Routes in Chapel Pond

Type: Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Yvon Chouinard
Page Views: 11,286 total, 117/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jan 5, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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122 Opinions

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Description

Climb the obvious flow for 2-3 pitches depending on belay strategy. There are numerous fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route and it may be wise to use them because they keep you out of the way of falling ice. Unless there are other parties (which is often the case), doing it in 2 pitches works well.

While it is not uncommon to have many parties on this route at one time, be prudent and careful because the gully tends to funnel falling ice directly onto the route below.

Descent (two options): (1) Walk off across a ledge system through the forest to the climbers left; (2) rappel the route using the fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route (however, be aware that rappelling this route when there are other parties present may create problems)

Location

Park at the Chapel Pond parking area and spy the obvious fat gully directly across from the parking area. Hike across the lake (making sure it is thoroughly frozen) and make your way to the base of the climb.

Protection

Usually takes as big a screw as you want to place. Ice or tree anchors.
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
Depending where your belayer stands on the first pitch, it's easiest to reach the belay at the top of the first pitch using a 70 meter rope. That 70 meter rope will get you to the lower of two belay stations on the left. From that lower set of anchors the next pitch is about 50 meters. Having twin 70s will also let you reach the bottom for your 2nd rap (assuming you don't walk off).

We walked off the top (to the climber's left) but the tramped down path ended in a full rappel (using double 60 meter ropes). I think we went down too soon and should have kept angling to the climbers left.

Note, there's a sketchy part just into the start of the walk off. You have to cross a steep gully (which had some hard ice in the middle and a couple large boulders with verglas). A slip while crossing the gully will send you quite a ways down. You might want a rope while crossing (depending on the skill of those in your party).

BTW, it is mostly WI2 with a short section of WI3 one third up the first pitch. In mid to late season, it's like a ladder with tons of ice tool holes to place your pick into (and stair like steps for foot holds). Lots of hands free rests for placing screws. Might be a good first lead except that both pitches are on the longer side. Looks like there's a WI3/WI4 variation for the 2nd pitch -- exit to the climber's right up the headwall instead of following the gully which angles left. Mar 2, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Ross,

In general I agree with your sentiment, which is why in my description of the two descent options I stated that folks should use good judgement when deciding whether to rappel or walk off. That said, when I did the route, we were the only ones on the route going either up or down. Given that it is entirely obvious whether there are parties below you (or if there will be in the near future...i.e. folks crossing the lake), then if nobody is around it is just fine to rap the route. In short, good judgement is a better option than strict rules on what is okay or not.

Cheers. Jan 27, 2014
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
Please don't rap the route. This is a classic, busy route. No one wants people dropping bombs from above. There is a very easy walk-off to the left that brings you down near the base of Crystal Ice Tower. Dec 11, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  WI2+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  WI2+
A single 70m rope will get you to the base of the climb in three rappels. Feb 2, 2011