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Routes in Chapel Pond
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Alpine Dreams WI2- |
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Artificial Gravity WI6 |
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Big Brother WI5 |
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Chapel Pond Slabs WI2+ |
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Chouinard's Gully WI3 |
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Chouinard's Right T WI3+ |
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Crystal Ice Tower WI4 |
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Dogleg Right T WI3+ |
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Emerald Slabs T WI2-3 R |
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Evisceration M6 |
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Forest Nymphs WI5+ M7 |
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H14 T WI4 M5 |
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Horner-Delaney M6 |
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Laceration WI4+ |
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Lames Ice Hose WI4 M4 |
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Lilith WI4 |
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Mean Green WI3- |
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Napolean TR M6-7 |
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Neck Tie Party T WI3+ R |
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Not Likely WI5- M5+ |
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Parallel Gully WI3 |
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Patey's Gully T WI3-4 |
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Power Play WI4-5 |
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Power Play Direct T WI5 |
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Pussyfootin' With Lilith WI3 M4+ |
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Reunion WI4 M4 |
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Rhiannon WI4+ |
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Seldom Scene WI3+ |
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Shaken Not Stirred WI5+ |
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Shipton's Extension M5 |
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Sockman T M7 R |
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Spike WI4+ M4 |
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Tahawas T WI3 |
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White Line Fever WI3 |
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Youthful Indescretions T M6+ |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | 1969, Yvon Chouinard, Jim McCarthy |
| Page Views: | 13,898 total · 124/month |
| Shared By: | J. Albers on Jan 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Climb the obvious flow for 2-3 pitches depending on belay strategy. There are numerous fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route and it may be wise to use them because they keep you out of the way of falling ice. Unless there are other parties (which is often the case), doing it in 2 pitches works well.
While it is not uncommon to have many parties on this route at one time, be prudent and careful because the gully tends to funnel falling ice directly onto the route below.
Descent (two options): (1) Walk off across a ledge system through the forest to the climbers left; (2) rappel the route using the fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route (however, be aware that rappelling this route when there are other parties present may create problems)
While it is not uncommon to have many parties on this route at one time, be prudent and careful because the gully tends to funnel falling ice directly onto the route below.
Descent (two options): (1) Walk off across a ledge system through the forest to the climbers left; (2) rappel the route using the fixed tree anchor stations on the left side of the route (however, be aware that rappelling this route when there are other parties present may create problems)
Downingtown, PA
Palmyra
Colorado
In general I agree with your sentiment, which is why in my description of the two descent options I stated that folks should use good judgement when deciding whether to rappel or walk off. That said, when I did the route, we were the only ones on the route going either up or down. Given that it is entirely obvious whether there are parties below you (or if there will be in the near future...i.e. folks crossing the lake), then if nobody is around it is just fine to rap the route. In short, good judgement is a better option than strict rules on what is okay or not.
Cheers. Jan 27, 2014
Albany, NY
We walked off the top (to the climber's left) but the tramped down path ended in a full rappel (using double 60 meter ropes). I think we went down too soon and should have kept angling to the climbers left.
Note, there's a sketchy part just into the start of the walk off. You have to cross a steep gully (which had some hard ice in the middle and a couple large boulders with verglas). A slip while crossing the gully will send you quite a ways down. You might want a rope while crossing (depending on the skill of those in your party).
BTW, it is mostly WI2 with a short section of WI3 one third up the first pitch. In mid to late season, it's like a ladder with tons of ice tool holes to place your pick into (and stair like steps for foot holds). Lots of hands free rests for placing screws. Might be a good first lead except that both pitches are on the longer side. Looks like there's a WI3/WI4 variation for the 2nd pitch -- exit to the climber's right up the headwall instead of following the gully which angles left. Mar 2, 2014