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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pete Gibb and Dave Gilyeat
Page Views: 14,404 total, 113/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


145 Opinions

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Description

Pete's Farewell is the Pitchoff classic!
Someone once told me the story behind the route's name. After the FA, Pete slipped off the top of the crag. Thinking Pete was dead, his partner looked over the edge to find him about 50ft below on a ledge screaming about his ankles.

Pitch 1 - Climb the 30ft easy face to a ledge. 5.2

Pitch 2 - Traverse the obvious line out left and up the dihedral to a belay next to the small pine. The lower traverse into the dihedral is slightly harder. 5.6 65ft

Pitch 3 - Walk across the ledge to an awesome handcrack and jam your way to the top. 5.7 60ft

Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined easily. To descend, move right at the top into a small cave and use the slung boulder to rap down into a chimney. There's a set of anchors at the end of the chimney on the face. You may want to stay on rappel to reach the anchors. Rap to the start of the route.

Location

This route starts on top of the practice slab. The approach trail on the left side of the crag will bring you to this big ledge.

Protection

Great and obvious protection the entire way. Bring a few large cams. #3-4 BD
Bring a camera for the super pictures you can take ... both of the climbing and the surrounding setting. Oct 11, 2017
James Gurian  
 
Hard to beat the setting and the climbing. Someone at the base I think saw my hexes and tried to scare me off, so I was surprised by the moderate climbing. Speaking of hexes, I left a gold torque nut on the route which is probably easy booty. Get it out and it's yours. May 31, 2017
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
That block on pitch two has been moving for the last four years that I've been around and it's not a huge problem, it's cammed in there and I don't see it going anywhere anytime soon. The stuck cam on pitch three has also been there for quite some time and only the trigger wires are frayed and broke, the actual stem appears to be intact and still safe. But if you don't like it don't clip it. The fixed rope is new as of last year. It has come and gone over the last few years, be glad it's there because it's quite the pain in the ass to set your rope up for a twenty foot rappel into that cave. Of course you can also just chimney down the cave to the right of the rope and avoid all of that if you don't like the fixed line. May 4, 2016
Found a rather loose rock on the second pitch 2/3 of the way across the traverse.
Aug 4, 2015
Pat A  
I found a fairly large loose block about the middle of the traverse on P2. It’s in the first (small) corner before you reach the big one. Trying not to pull on it made those moves pretty interesting. This was my first time Pete’s Farewell, maybe this block has been loose for a while? Oct 6, 2014
ryan012
Portland, OR
 
ryan012   Portland, OR
 



Awesome climb. Easy route finding, great protection and great holds. There's a black tricam on 1st belay ledge that was left on 5/12/2014 simply because we lost the nut tool. This was that pieces first weekend out so grab if you'd like, it's brand new.

Descent wasn't as bad as I imagined it would be. Pulling the rope from the slung boulder isn't bad. The second anchor is in a bit of a weird spot though. Stay on rappel to reach it, below it is open air and the ledges at the start of P1. May 14, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
Just another goofy historical note. When I first did Pete's, back in '79, the upper crack (which was WAY too big for our #11 hexes) still sported some sections of 2x4 lumber that had been driven into it, with holes drilled in the end to run a sling through. Yes, of course we clipped them! Jan 18, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
I'd like to clear up a little history regarding the route name. As far as I know, the route has always been called Pete's Farewell (Pete Gibb may left the area shortly afterwards). It was certainly called that when I first climbed it back in 1979 (using the little green guidebook by Tom Rosecrans). The reference made to the falling climber in the intro here on MP has nothing to do with the name of the route. I know this because I'm the guy that took the big digger off the top. In October of 1979 I climbed "The Disputed" (which is the 5.7/8 crack directly above 1st belay on Pete's) with my college roommate, Mark Arsenault. When we got into the woods we packed up our stuff and began walking the cliff edge toward the decent gully at the west end. As we approached the point where Pete's Farewell tops out, I stepped out onto the little slab to avoid a bush, slipped on some wet moss, slid down the slab on my butt and fell off the top of the cliff. After about 30 feet (15 down the slab and another 15 in the air), I landed on both feet at the last belay for The El, my ankles rolled badly (with accompanying snapping noises), I tipped over to my left toward the hole where you begin the downclimb through the Great Chimney, and stopped. Knowing the cliff well, and the sheer drop to the talus from the top of The El, Mark assumed I was at the bottom and decided to continue his descent and go into Lake Placid to call the police. He was so certain that the fall was unsurvivable that he did not call out to me and was not going to go to the bottom of the cliff before heading into town. When I shouted his name, he freaked out a little. My friend, Alan Jolley (a longtime Daks climber) was at the cliff that day and between him and Mark they skidded my sorry butt back down to the road and we went to the hospital in Saranac Lake. So that's basically it: my name is Pete, I pitched off Pitchoff, and fared very well. The best part of the story (other than the obvious irony) is that I was 19 at the time and had never had a girlfriend. Back at school (I was a freshman at nearby Paul Smith's College), I had been watching a beautiful dark-haired girl for weeks but was too much of a goofball to even introduce myself. In the cafeteria a couple of days after my accident the girl walked by me with her tray full of dishes and I reached out with one of my crutches and tripped her (I just did it, okay, I didn't put much thought into it). Down she went amidst crashing plates and silverware and then up she got, right in my face reading me the riot act. Karen and I have married for 31 years, have two grown children, and a new granddaughter named Sophie. Whenever we go back to the Dacks, we always stop at the little pull-off below the cliff, get out, lean against the car, and look up at Pitchoff. We thank God for his grace and mercy and then I put my arm around my beautiful dark-haired wife and kiss her on the cheek.
Jan 16, 2014
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Doing "The Lonely" instead of P1 and P2 of Pete's is a fun way to go. A #4 is not necessary, but i think having two #3s is a good idea for the money pitch. Great climb. Oct 23, 2012
kenr  
P3 - unless you've got rather large hands, the lower section of the crack of P3 is too wide for effective hand-jams -- but for me it went pretty easily as a layback, especially with jamming/camming my feet a little into the crack. Jul 19, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
For those of you used to the fixed gray alien cam being at the first belay, it wasn't there when i went up on saturday 5/19/12. Just beware that the belay now will eat up even more of your little gear. May 22, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Classic route in the ADK's with great views! First pitch is short but damp. The second pitch is fun I recommend traversing above the little roof system, much easier. The third pitch is really exposed and makes for a great climb! Apr 12, 2012
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
awesome climb. My favorite adirondack route this far. Stay low on the traverse, it's easier. Gaining the crack is a cool stem move. Other than that it's an exciting breeze. A truly G climb, imagine that. Jul 8, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.7
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.7
You can acceptably protect the climb with a single rack to 3". Bring more if you want to sew any section up. Aug 3, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7+
Michael,

A single 60m rope will get you to the ground from the chimney rappel station. Aug 29, 2009
Michael G  
 
single or double rope rap? Thanks. Aug 28, 2009
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Serious about the bigger cams. You're looking at a HUGE swing onto your belayer before you get that first #4 in. I just had one with me and it was pretty exciting sliding it up as I went before I could throw in something in the #2 range. Apr 8, 2008
AGH
 
AGH  
 
P3 is an awesome pitch with solid jams and great exposure. Plus: The amusement factor is pretty high when the tourists stop in the pulloff to rubberneck at you. Jun 29, 2007