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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA--Patrick Purcell 1993
Page Views: 2,152 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Though this is Pitchoff's lone sport route among several Adirondack classics, Raging Raven is an absolute must for anyone looking to lighten their rack and have a grand time on a steep line of big holds.

Once you've cleared the frustrating initial moves, enjoy the steep and well-bolted face. Just don't make too much noise enroute to the anchor, or you may awaken the ravens' nest to your right!!

A stick clip is required (the block that provided the sole protection is gone).

Location

Down to the right of the Roaches on the Wall terrace.

Protection

Quickdraws to a fixed anchor.

Photos

Adam Hammershoi
Long Island, New York
 
Adam Hammershoi   Long Island, New York
 
Avoid this route when coming to the Adirondacks. All of the crux holds felt like they were gonna blow of the wall at any point. If the holds were solid, this would be a 4 star route. Oct 24, 2017
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
Tricky! But agreeably one of the best sport routes I've been on. I can't really speak to the integrity of the first few holds, some felt creaky, but I didn't really go into inspecting them much. All I can say is stick clip the first bolt and climb them while they last! Hopefully they stick around in time for me to come back and do the route clean ha. May 4, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Climbed this route today. The first major hold/block flexed and creaked when I pulled out on it. I thought it was going to break off but it didn't. If this thing breaks off, which it probably will, you could get hurt since it looks to be a decent size. After leading it, I climbed it a second time on TR to see if you can avoid this hold, and you can. You can also pull down on a hold on the top of it instead of pulling outward which should put less leverage on it. I was glad to have stick-clipped the first bolt!

Great pitch! With a bit of caution still very safe.... Jun 10, 2015
perrotr Perrot
Telluride
  5.11b
perrotr Perrot   Telluride
  5.11b
Definitely harder than flying squirrels...more physical. The cruxes are 5.11 with solid 5.10 climbing in between. The starting undercling hold feels hollow/loose. I pulled a small loose triangular rock out of the lower crux gaston move today. It didn't change the hold, or the move. I doubt the route will be the same 10 yrs from now. Exfoliating rock at the base. Jun 3, 2015
JJ221
Morristown
JJ221   Morristown
I've never been on this climb but have done a good bit of climbing at this location. Road tripping one summer we had stashed our beer and sandwich fixings in a styrofoam cooler in the bed of my truck. As my friend Matt and I spent the day climbing at the cliff we took note of a vocal raven lustily cawing to his friends. We didn't think much of it until the end of the day hiking back out to my truck we noticed the cooler had been punched through and the lunch meat within had become raven food. Thankfully the beer was still fine and cold. We had been struck by a ... Mar 11, 2015
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
An odd location for one of the best sport climbs I've ever been on. Apr 26, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
TR'ed this route today after not having climbed it in a while, and I'd like to say, for the record, that it's stout in the grade. Aug 1, 2009

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