Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 678 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Jul 9, 2019 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This 1986 route was recently recleaned (2019) and makes a fine addition to this section of the cliff. It is similar to Roaches on the Wall in that after bouldering up to the first horizontal crack, the gear is excellent. (It is possible to bridge up using the tree, place the gear, then start again with a "stick clip".)
Boulder up to a sloping crimp at the start, then up right to another edge, then finally the horizontal 12' up. Climb to the next horizontal (green Alien), then up left past a bolt (crux) to a good incut rail. From here follow the right-facing flakes to the top; there are many hidden horizontals that take excellent gear through this section.
The original rating is 5.10c, but I think that's sandbagged. More like 10+/11-.
Boulder up to a sloping crimp at the start, then up right to another edge, then finally the horizontal 12' up. Climb to the next horizontal (green Alien), then up left past a bolt (crux) to a good incut rail. From here follow the right-facing flakes to the top; there are many hidden horizontals that take excellent gear through this section.
The original rating is 5.10c, but I think that's sandbagged. More like 10+/11-.
Location
Locate the always-wet spot just left of Rock and Roll Star. Begin about 6' left below a face with a horizontal crack 12' up.
Photos
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