Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Don Mellor, Bob Bushart, June 1981
Page Views: 1,349 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 31, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

A more sustained finish to "Pete's Farewell".

At the second pitch belay for "Pete's", move straight up the featured face to the lone bolt. Clip this, then make a series of delicate and balancy moves to gain the elephant ear jug. Pull through this to a large horizontal. Rest, then tackle the clean finger/handcrack to the summit. Build a hanging belay anchor in the crack. 60'

Descent: Make an exposed traverse left along the narrow fin of rock to the flatter ledge with the large boulder on it. Climb down behind, and head back right along some easy 4th class terrain to the chain anchors at the end of the chimney. One 60m rappel will deposit you at the base of "Pete's".

Location

At the top of the 2nd pitch belay for "Pete's Farewell".

Protection

A standard rack.

Photos

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Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Fantastic but short pitch! Don't let the lack of stars in the guidebook deter you. Also was just up there recently and someone replaced the old spinner bolt with a fat new one. Aug 6, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
Just climbed today under pretty uncomfortably cold conditions, but I thought the pitch definitely deserves more than the 2 stars the guidebook gives it. The move past the bolt is really cool and trusty, the finishing crack climbs real nice and can easily be protected all passively. My personal crux was the traverse on the handrail. My hands were pretty cold at this point so others may think different. The feet are just pretty poor around there, the gear is bomber though. Also, you can fit a #5 BD stopper behind the "elephant ear jug" although it's pretty mental and could ruin the climb if someone actually fell on it there because I imagine that flake would rip off, it's quite hollow. All in all a good climb and awesome alternative to pete's, definitely hop on it. Nov 2, 2014