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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 396 total, 10/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link-up that combines the first pitch of Rugosity with the second pitch of Bogeyman. The chimney pitch of Rugosity sports an easy chimney with an unlikely exit move. The second pitch of Bogeyman changes gears and offers some exposed face climbing initially, followed by some spicy technical face climbing above. A diverse and lesser-traveled route for the confident 5.8 leader.

P1: (5.8 G) Climb the obvious chimney (easy, no gear) until you reach the roof and horizontal crack on the right side. Protect with your 3.5-4" cam and hand traverse out the horizontal to pull "the move" to get your feet underneath you and climb briefly to the perch atop the stacked boulders under the roof (belay here).
P2 (5.8 G): Gain the highest block that allows one to by pass the roof. Face climb up and left passing horizontals (protection) to a semi-detached block with a bolt at its left. Climb up to a wide horizontal and a left-leaning sloping ledge. Move left on the ledge to a bolt and climb technical face to the last bolt. Easier climbing past a moss filled horizontal (no gear) leads to a final horizontal with a dirty but welcomed pod of cleared vegetation for protection. One last section of face climbing leads to the fixed anchor atop the cliff.

Location

50 ft. right of Pete's Farewell at the obvious left facing corner/chimney. You can either begin from the ground by approaching from the base of the Practice Wall. Or you can traverse across to the base of the chimney via the heavily vegetated ledge system to the right of Pete's first pitch (with a spot of down-climbing). The former is more vege-nering than climbing for the first 1/3 but the latter kind of sucks as you're thrasing through thriving vegetation very near a 30' drop.

Descent: Rappel back to the stacked blocks belay ledge. You'll have to swing yourself about to reach a fixed anchor around on one of the blocks. One more rappel will lead to either the traverse ledge or the ground.

Protection

A light rack to 1.5" cam (#1 camalot) and a 3.5"-4" cam. 3 bolts. Fixed anchor atop P2.

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
There is some spice on P2 between the second and third bolt (of which one is not in the topo of the 1st edition of the Adirondack Rock book, so not sure if that was an erratum or if the bolt was added since then). Regardless, if you cased the moves to the third bolt, you're likely to hit the leaning sloping ledge. It's not 5.8, but it's also not cruiser easy either, hence my recommendation as a route for confident 5.8 leaders. Jul 7, 2014