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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA 1977, Eric Rhicard, Morris Hershoff, John Deladucca
Page Views: 750 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 30, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A very obvious, and deceptively hard (read: awkward!) finger crack on the same terrace that "Roaches on the Wall" is found.

The business is right off the deck. Battle the finger crack through a somewhat committing and hard to protect (blind placements) section to a good rest on jugs in a horizontal 35' up. Once you're deflamed, work up a short corner (right-facing) then angle right across the face to meet up with the pleasant crack finish of "Roaches".

A great route, and well worth the effort.

Location

The obvious finger crack at the top of the approach trail to the "Roaches on the Wall" terrace.

Protection

A standard rack up to a #2 Camalot.

Photos

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friend was practicing clean aid and blocked all my jams lol.. but this route is something else its pretty diverse to climb. from finger cracks to little face at the top. but all just slaps you stupid hard when you step on it, small break mid way and then its right back in your face to the end Aug 6, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This route is a real M-F'er!!! Tricky and strenuous to place gear! If you are feeling overly confident after climbing some of the other 10's on the cliff, go over and get on this for some self-flagellation!!! Aug 6, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This route is just plain hard, right from the very first move...and it's in-your-face-STEEP! Apr 24, 2014