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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Jim Goodwin
Page Views: 2,386 total, 28/month
Shared By: DWABS on Jan 2, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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18 Opinions

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Description

P1: The start is a scramble up some blocks to a right facing corner. Up this to the opening of the chimney. Surmount the chockstone (crux) and into the mountain you go. Fixed anchor for belay. 5.6

P2: Scramble into the chimney to a thin crack on the road-side wall and begin to stem up the chimney. Eventually, step left to fixed anchor. 5.5

P3: Traverse across and downclimb to the summit boulders near the top of "Pete's Farewell". 5.2

Location

Start same as "Pete's Farewell".

Protection

Chris Mp
Toronto, ON
Chris Mp   Toronto, ON
P3 is the best pitch of the climb, that traverse across the top was not what I was expecting!!
For P2, we did not stem at all, we just climbed up the thin crack on the road-side wall. Climbing the thin crack felt more difficult than 5.5. I didn't even try to stem and I'm tall...those walls must be getting farther apart cause stem-ing did not seem like the way to go. Sep 15, 2016
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
If you follow the original route description or the Adirondack Rock description for P2, I found "step left" a little confusing---left while facing which wall?

Once you get to the square notch after stemming, the fixed anchor the guide mentions is up on the main (inner) face ~8' above the notch, behind you and to the left as you're facing the road (or up and to the right if you're facing the mountain).

Actually a fun exploration of a super cool feature. Sep 6, 2016
Jay Harrison
  5.6
Jay Harrison  
  5.6
For Pitch 2, one can also chimney directly upward from the top of P1, then exit roadside through a "window" onto the main face. A short bit of climbing leads up to a ledge with a fixed anchor which can be used to descend into the chimney down to the P1 fixed anchor, or with 70m rope, down the face to the starting ledge. This latter method is tight; be sure your rope ends reach the ledge. Dec 7, 2012