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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Purcell, Don Mellor July 1989
Page Views: 100 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jon Clark on Sep 23, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

An excellent route combining a well protected crux with a delicate and exciting finish. Perhaps best done as one long pitch. Hard in the grade.

Traverse right and up to the first bolt. Continue right past left facing flakes clipping another bolt to a working stance at a pin. Crank through this section to the base of a right facing corner. Climb more easily up the corner to a ledge and optional belay.

Continue straight up the face on horizontals to a bulging face. Angle left past a critical and fragile flake to a good hold. Climb to the top of the cliff passing a rotten birch tree with slings. Using this as a belay is not recommended.

Location

The far right end of the Roaches Terrace.

Protection

gear to 2 inches, 2 bolts, 1 pin

Photos

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