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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA--Jerry Hoover and Bob Bushart, 9/79 FFA--Rick Fleming, 5/80
Page Views: 3,262 total, 26/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Roaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.

In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.

This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!

Location

From the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.

The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.

Protection

1 Bolt and a standard rack to a yellow Camalot.

Chain anchors at the top.
Systematic  
 
One of the more Classic classics I've ever done. Highly recommended. May 24, 2016
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10 PG13
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10 PG13
Definitely not a safe way to break into 5.10
The start has a finger traverse without any real feet for about 20'. The only stance along the horizontal crack from which you can protect from is once your directly under the bolt. At least there are some large boulders to land on. 😡
After that the climb is G rated. Jul 5, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10b/c
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10b/c
This climb is a sandbag as an onsight espppppecially if you have bigger fingers! Once you figure out the moves, 5.10b sounds semi appropriate. Legend has it that Russ Raffa flailed on this thing on his onsight attempt! This one is about a G rated as it gets though! Direct start goes at basically unprotected 5.11b/c! Jun 25, 2015
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
 
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
 
Trying to on-sight the crux of this is sort of like accidentally sticking your hand in a bees nest. At first you're a little surprised, then you get nervous, and then you have to make the decision to move out ... or run around getting stung. That being said, there is a pot of honey at the top and it's worth a few stings. Very well protected though, fell once off the crux with gear near my feet and, with a nice soft catch, experienced nothing more than a few butterflies. Apr 19, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This is old-school 5.10; it ain't no weenie Red Rocks clip-up. Jan 16, 2014
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10
I agree that this is a safe route to break into 5.10 on. The crux is high enough for there to be a lot of room for a fall, on pretty vertical terrain, and well protected (I found micro-cams helpful). As well, the crux is short-lived. Aug 3, 2010