Roaches on the Wall
Avg: 3.6 from 60 votes
Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
|Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||FA--Jerry Hoover and Bob Bushart, 9/79 FFA--Rick Fleming, 5/80|
|Page Views:||3,262 total, 26/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007|
DescriptionRoaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.
In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.
This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!
LocationFrom the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.
The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.