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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Don Mellor, Mike Heintz - 1985
Page Views: 1,554 total, 18/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A sleeper quality climb that looks dirty but climbs nicely with a lot of variety and a short crux.

Start as for Pete's Farewell and climb to the ledge that traverses right to the obvious 15' off-width crack. Make a physical and awkward move to gain the off-width and then continue up and slightly right to a series of small ledges to a ledge with a high bolt and a bulge. Work right and up through the bulge (crux) to a stance and make a move left (tricky) into the left-facing corner and follow the crack up as it widens from fingers to the fixed anchor.

Location

Start: Same as Pete's Farewell
Descent: Rappel from fixed anchor, 60m will be tight.

Protection

To 3", bring a 4" piece if unsure about the off-width. One bolt. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

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Yotsuba
 
Yotsuba  
 
Great climb with some interesting crux movement. Make sure to tie a stopper at the end of your rope when lowering your leader. Despite the description giving the route is 100', I was lowered through the end of my rope(a little longer 60m) and fell about 4m. Maybe it's 100' if you belay from the upper ledge. Apr 24, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Really cool, interesting pitch. So much better than it looks from the ground. The offwidth is fun too, and really adds to the character of the climb. Beware of taking a potentially dangerous pendulum fall onto a ledge at the crux, past the bolt. I'm guessing the bolt was placed on lead, based on its position? Aug 6, 2014