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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Grant Calder and John Wald 1976
Page Views: 815 total, 13/month
Shared By: Drake Pregnall on Sep 1, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1:

Boulder up through the 7 foot tall phone booth (right side seems easier) to jugs and a short right rising flake (first gear). From here, traverse right for 70 feet along a good horizontal with some dirty feet. Build a belay below the right end of a low roof (good blocks to sit on). 5.9- PG

Pitch 2:

Climb straight up from the belay ledge using a vertical crack. Move right to another vertical crack and then back left to a pretty hollow flake (no gear). Climb the flake to its top below the final bulging headwall. Pull through the bulge and scramble up the slab to build a belay near where The El tops out. 5.9 PG

Location

The route starts about 20 feet right of Roaches on the Wall where the Roaches Terrace gets grassy, narrow, and exposed. The phone booth feature is pretty obvious. Descent via the Great Chimney rappels.

Protection

Each pitch has a short portion of poorly protected climbing. Other than those small bits, the climb takes great gear from micro size to 3 inches.

Photos

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Connor F-M
Lafayette, CO
5.9+ PG13
Connor F-M   Lafayette, CO
5.9+ PG13
Part of that flake on the second pitch is gone now, since I yarded on it like an idiot and broke the bottom clean off. Not much harder probably, but take caution moving past the rest of the flake. Jul 6, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.9 PG13
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.9 PG13
I found that I never used above a .75 on this route. Doubles in C3s and finger sized stuff would have been more useful in my opinion (especially for building the P1 belay).

The route is worthwhile if you're comfortable with the start (there isn't gear until well established above the roof). The traverse on P1 (which is the book crux) is in my opinion well protected (potentially for both leader and follower). P2 is worthwhile and much cleaner than P1. If more traffic hit this climb and P1 cleaned up a bit, this would be a solid 3 star route to avoid the crowds on the more moderate routes to the right. Jul 6, 2014