Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Description

This crag is the impressive piece of rock on the right side of the road on 73 when driving North from Keene Valley. Its easy roadside access and short approach make it a popular weekend crag. Pitchoff Chimney Cliff is home to about 20 climbs. Ranging from 5.7-5.11. The rock quality is excellent and involves vertical/horizontal cracks and face. Protection is generally good. Most of the climbs offer spectacular views of the scenic Cascade Pass.
Classic Routes - Pete's Farewell 5.7, The El 5.8 and Roaches on the Wall 5.10.

Getting There

Roadside on 73 across from Cascade Lakes, which is about 15mins south of Lake Placid. There are 2 small parking lots on the Cascade Lake side of the road. The approach trail towards the left side of the crag is obvious.

17 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
Great Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
The Lonely
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 145
Pete's Farewell
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
The El
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
The Disputed
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Bogosity (Link-up)
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 9
Wald-Calder Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
PF Flyers
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 60
Roaches on the Wall
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Coffee Achievers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Rock and Roll Star
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
Star Sailor
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Raging Raven
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Flying Squirrels
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Great Chimney
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Lonely
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Pete's Farewell
 145
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
The El
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Disputed
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bogosity (Link-up)
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Wald-Calder Route
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
PF Flyers
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Roaches on the Wall
 60
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Coffee Achievers
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rock and Roll Star
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Star Sailor
 14
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Raging Raven
 14
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flying Squirrels
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Expect lots of road noise while climbing and occasionally observers cheering you on, from the parking pull-offs. The right end of this cliff is used as a practice ice climbing spot in the winter. Oct 11, 2017

More About Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (9)

All Photos Within Pitchoff Chimney Cliff (51)

Most Popular · Newest · Random