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Routes in Pitchoff Chimney Cliff

Bogosity (Link-up) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffee Achievers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Disputed, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dynamo Hum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
El, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Squirrels T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PF Flyers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pete's Farewell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raging Raven S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roaches on the Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock and Roll Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Running of the Bulls T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Star Sailor T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wald-Calder Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: April, 1981--Don Mellor
Page Views: 1,039 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Well-protected, pumpy crack climbing through a steep bulge characterize this airy journey.

Climb the first 6 feet of the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell", then climb the short face to reach the bottom of the initial crack.

Take this until it's end, make a balancy move left a couple feet to reach the bottom of the right-facing corner. Hard moves over this to a welcomed rail. Mantel onto the rail, place some gear and blast through the final bulge, with smeary feet and thin finger locks.

Finish the route by traversing right a couple feet into the final, blocky steeps of "The Disputed". Shared chain anchors.

Location

6-feet into the traversing 2nd pitch of "Pete's Farewell".

Protection

A rack of small to medium nuts, plus finger size cams up to A single #2.

Photos

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Jim Lawyer

  5.10b
Jim Lawyer    
  5.10b
The only downside to this route is having to disrupt the constant train of folks on Pete's Farewell to access the start. Other than that, it's a top route! Jun 30, 2017
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
 
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
 
What a great finger crack. The sustained portion before the crux follows fun first knuckle locks with pastey feet, and a couple decent rest stances, the crux is full on, then it's moderate to the top with long reaches between big holds. Don't pass it up if you're in the area. Apr 26, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Beautiful, well protected finger crack with great position, on great rock!!! I think one of the better finger cracks in the park. Aug 6, 2014